Search results

I doubt they touched your camber. Ford's camber plate range is out to -2.3*. The Ford service manual procedure calls for notching the top strut to spindle bolt hole which they'd look at and go "no thanks". Yes, weight needs to be off the wheels to adjust camber. After loosening the top 3 strut...

Thanks for sharing. Anecdotally, I have beat the piss out of my car on tracks for 2 seasons now without a STB, and have no signs of any problems.

Hmm they claim they measured half of a millimeter of flex without their brace, improved to a fifth of a millimeter with. I'm sorry, I don't believe a third of a millimeter of flex is going to improve suspension geometry characteristics any amount that couldn't be dismissed as margin of error.

200K miles on my 2012 Mustang GT all on Motorcraft 5W-20 blend. I put 5w-50 in the Dark Horse only because it's Whipple's spec but dang does it annoy me spending 4x as much per oil change.

Because it never happens to ICE vehicles, right?

Curious if this is more of an under the hood ornament than a performance part?

In your opinion, why will it bust things up?

I use one on my car. It's fine, just ensure the motor and oil is decently warm before you open it or you'll be there all day. As far as potentially sheering off... even with my motor lowered half an inch with a heavy blower on top it's still not the lowest part of my chassis, and it's already...

I keep entertaining it but then I remind myself of the time I traded my manual 1999 3000GT in for an auto 2010 370Z. I didn't last 2 months with that car before I grew so bored of the automatic and traded it in for my manual 2012 Mustang GT. My 6 speed Dark Horse may be slower than the autos and...

Probably going to be an updated competition spec variant for the new season.

The GT3's 5.4 is based on the coyote, not the old triton.

Darker Horse

Turbo boost is controlled by a wastegate spring, so yeah, whatever the wastegate is sprung for will dictate your starting boost. A boost control solenoid is installed in-between the wastegate and the manifold (before the throttle body) to allow higher than sprung boost levels by manipulating the...

Likely because of machine assembly.

It's probably the easiest first step toward addressing your concern and has a lasting effect compatible with your future mods. I'd do it first. The rear camber is adjustable from the factory by adjusting eccentric bolts, it's just more tedious than with the replacement camber arms and lacks the...

The first step I'd take to fix the rear is install a rear subframe alignment kit. It doesn't have to be from Steeda. They charge near twice as much as everyone else's options. Here's a kit from KellTrac that would get you lined up...

The front end is most likely just a difference in alignment. The k-member doesn't have the same sloppy mounting the rear subframe has. I feel like I can tell from the pics alone that the driver side has more negative camber.

Anytime I wash mine I can't even make it 20 minutes to work without the rear end becoming filthy

There is some slop in the rear subframe mounting of these cars so that's likely a contributor considering yours was dropped to replace the fuel tank. See the various manufacturer's dowl kits for an idea of how much play there is. Your camber also looks different between the sides, which would...