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My auto DH does not wheel hop. I’m running a whipple stage 2. It’ll blow the tires off, yes, but it absolutely does not wheel hop. I’ve wheel hopped older manual mustangs more times than I can count. Any manual mustang I’ve ever driven needed aftermarket suspension upgrades in some form, for sure.

log your vehicle using the tomahawk tool Whipple provided with your kit. That will tell you what’s happening.

Ford performance sells an OEM version. More expensive than the replicas but you won’t need to worry about buying trash.

If you upload your log to google Gemini or chatgpt, you will receive decent analysis on the logs. Tell the AI everything; leave out nothing. The AI will give you remarkable insight into what your logs are telling you. If you don’t understand something, tell the AI to explain in more detail...

Fixing the P219B should be relatively simple. Finding the vacuum leak, injector, or 02 sensor, etc that is causing the problem will be time intensive, but not impossible; Especially if a shop does the work.

Yes, it is an amazing time. You’ll learn a lot and have a ton of fun. And Ford lets you beat the hell out of a DH that doesn’t belong to you!

My DH was also missing one or two of those. I just removed all of them.

I’ve got the full lengths on my car. They’re flush.

That is exactly correct.

Your car will probably run fine with 1 7/8” catted long tubes on Stage 1, but I’m not a fan of that option. The tune isn’t crazy aggressive, but it’s a lot more heat than stock and lately, a few people on this forum have had Stage 1 Whipples melt their cats. Depends a lot on how you drive and...

If you intend to street drive the car, 1 7/8 long tubes will be more than adequate. nothing wrong with staying legal and installing cats with the long tubes. I run Kooks 1 7/8 long tubes with no cats. When the time comes for emission, I’ll swap the connection tubes that have cats and go to the...

I am using the Lethal Performance 90 degree spacers for the O2 sensors. They have effectively prevented a check engine light so far.

I did the whipple stage 2 and kooks long tubes with no cats. I also installed the UPR catch cans long ago, with the upgraded check valve.

I like the way the black tips look. To each their own, for sure.

They are definitely painted but don't appear to be chrome underneath. More like a magnesium color under the black paint. The bare metal is also not shiny or smooth like chrome would be. I don't think you'd be able to take off the paint and polish the tips chrome without significant work.

I had the same question about 1.5 years ago... and I found the answer: https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/paint-type-and-color-for-dark-horse-exhaust-tips.159935/

It is two days; yes. The first day is just a dinner event. Day “two” is driving.

There are a few S650 dyno results videos for the configurations you're considering. The common conclusion is that deleting the resonator doesn't improve power on an otherwise stock coyote. So really, it's how you want it to sound.

Sorry, I didn't answer your question: The dashboard display of IAT didn't change drastically, which is why I data logged to confirm (among other reasons).

I data logged my car (Whipple Stage 2) on October 15. Ambient temperature during the log was 75 degrees F; beautiful day for a short cruise. I started the data log after driving the car calmly for about 10 minutes. Once the data log was started, I drove for another 15 minutes, driving part...