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i am not familiar with this 3% rule, what is it?

this seems normal. mass produced vehicles will have panel gaps. just be glad you dont drive a Cybertruck. big panel gaps with panel edges that will cut you and a frunk that will remove your fingers. all while some panels are welded into place under tension and others are barely handing on

i found some pictures online also worth remembering that Mustangs that come factory with 20" wheels have a factory higher ride height, so putting 20" wheels on one that didnt come with those size wheels factory and still on the stock suspension will naturally look slightly lowered

as far as i know, there isnt really much you can do about the low speed IATs. they dont hurt, anyways. i've noticed the same thing, if i idle or go low speed, the IATs go way up, but when moving they are 0 to 2 degrees above ambient

those are for the rear tires only. they are the hexadecimal version of the circumference of the rear tires in mm, and the first two digits go in -01, the last two go in -02. or, if you dont want to do any guessing, you can use a tool i made at this link. you just input your rear tire size and it...

if you want to delete it cleanly, the first step and the one that makes it not worth while is to change the body wiring harness. in the image below, it's the pink wiring this harness also controls the convertible top, so its even more unrealistic to change it. also, deleting the third brake...

i think in this specific case with the bodykit, it might fall under trade dress infringement. for those who dont know trade dress is "the characteristics of the visual appearance of a product or its packaging (or even the design of a building) that signify the source of the product to consumers"...

good news, the pistons are good, as are the cams. looks like it was just one of the cylinder 7 exhaust valves that has been leaking oil for who knows how long here is the problematic valve and here is the block without the cylinder head. semi-open deck also some cam pictures if anyone finds...

100% warranty. the total is up to about $7700

its gotten slight worse. i need new axle seals as well. i wonder what else is going to need work? who wants to take some bets on the condition of the engine internals?

for anyone confused why this is happening, go ahead and take a look at the Streethunter bodykit vs the GTD Streethunter bodykit GTD its basically an exact copy of Ford's halo car, with some minor visual differences, but none of the performance stuff. no pushrod suspension, no active aero...

things have gotten a bit worse. turns out my water pump is seeping as well. i think my engine was built 1 minute before clock out on a Friday before a holiday weekend

personally, i would rather be on the hook for a window regulator than let some keys get locked in a vehicle, because a broken part being fixed for free makes the customer happy, but being asked to come down with your spare key because the main one was locked in the vehicle will certainly not

ive seen this happen many times, its the reason why all service departments should roll down the windows of vehicles on the service drive. the reason the key is able to be locked in the vehicle is because of one of the possible use cases of the SecuriCode keyless entry. you go to do something...

10/29/24 - 24C35 - "Black Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Screen" Advance Notice, ETA Q1 2025 Affected vehicles: 6192, built between 5/10/24 - 8/20/24 The affected vehicles may not conform to the requirements specified by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 101, 102, 108, 126, 135...

outlaw, it unfortunately just sounds like the two dealers you contacted just kinda suck. this issue you described perfectly fits a known issue where the solution is an ABS module reprogram, SSM 52716. that second dealer sounds very pretentious and i would recommend staying away from them and...

this also works for fast charging in general. if you dont put it into power saving mode, the phone quickly gets too hot and disables charging. oddly, on my phone, using Google Maps with Android Auto also causes it to overheat, but maybe that was fixed, i havent tried it in a while

the one with the slash through it means pre-collision assist is disabled. that one means you should stop tailgating or else pre-collision assist's abilities in an emergency may be very limited or none

these vehicles will run 87 no issue, but ideally you want to use 91 or 93 for maximum performance. not using premium will result in reduced overall power, potentially reduced fuel economy, and the VCTs being retarded. this changes if you add the Whipple kit, using 91 or 93 or better is required...

you guys really dropped the ball on this one, if there even is a human replying. shame