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Don't like the fuel pump much?(keeping it submerged helps keep it cool). My wife always drove our S197 down to that level, and then only put $20 or so in it, and it started having fuel pump problems later in life. Hope you don't run it that low on the track... or maybe you were just being...

Looks like they have all the good sizes... the 20x11 +14 and 20x11.5 +43 look a bit odd though, perhaps a wide body (GTD) spec? I need to quit lookin at them...

What's so strange about that... I have found with most cars; I struggle to get even close to advertised "city MPG" but often surpass the "hwy MPG" on long trips. Mostly city in my S650 Eco (HPP, so 3.55's) gets about the same as you... the lifetime is about 22.5mpg. Mostly highway and open...

I believe that 190 is correct... seems I've seen that elsewhere.

Definitely check alignment. These cars all seem to be out of spec from the factory... And rotation @ oil change works well for me.

These ones? I don’t want to buy new wheels... but those are sharp... hmmm. What sizes are they available in? Thinking 20x11 and 20x10...

I think @GrabThatBlue is correct for your wiring harness in the door... (unfortunately). Homelink is just a matter of replacing the visor with one that has the homelink buttons (plug and play).

I like the 1/4 tank fill up as well... gotta keep that in tank fuel pump cool!

8,9, and 10 are for mirror position sensors... to put the mirror back to the memory settings (on cars with the memory function)... and 12 was a separate ground for the BLIS indicator from the door module (pin 7 used as common ground for everything on non-memory mirrors).

Oh man, what a bummer, that was the only part of the NPP that I wanted on my 24... One day I may bite the bullet and spend the ridiculous amount of $ on them and replace mine...

Yep... still there... not sure I even believe that ford would worry about it (or change it)...

They ran out of the other headlights and said f it, just use what we have... If those are recent builds, check the front fender liners, someone said they are closing up the holes in there on the new builds... not sure this is true...

We all know you did it... and how long it took... plus you know (most important). I'm sure plenty of us have struggled for hours with a blind fitting (or blind plug). When I swapped the rear toe link bushings for bearings, the first side took about 4 hours. Of course an hour was running to town...

The lug nuts you got would be required for most aftermarket wheels, as there is not enough room for the factory "bulge" style (like these). They should work fine, but if you are not planning on aftermarket wheels, and don't like the current look, get the "bulge" style.

I used it as a bug swatter... boy, was it fun... not so much cleaning them off.

If they light up at start, all should be good...

LOL.. when I saw your earlier post, I was going to ask if you closed the door... So glad it is working for you. One thing I did notice, you may lose the BLIS indicator... You may want to check that it works before closing things up. The gnd for the BLIS indicator is on pin 12 on the new mirror...

I saw some kits @ steeda

Ecoboost without HPP gets no paddles... I think everything else does.

It looks like this connector here has the same type of tab (different connector).. located on right fender, below the fusebox. You will need to push down on tab... usually pretty hard. at least you can see how it should work.