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Yes it is. As I was ready to move out of HPDE (with NASA), I was convinced that racing class American Iron was my next move. After talking to many drivers and weighing the cost factor as well as potential damage factor, I reconsidered the racing classes. Instead, went into Time Trials (TT3)...

Are the wheels boxed individually with HD cardboard inside (top / sides)?

Having FI alone doesn't make you fast in road racing. When I first began road racing, I was educated very quickly that it takes more than HP to be competitive. Things like experience and proper setup are key factors. I've seen V8's get beat by Miata's a lot and it took me years to figure it...

Since TT+ is being directed at GDI engines and TT is primarily directed at PFI......yea, if my TT gas stations get upgraded to TT+, I'll use it.

Windscreen compliments a roll bar nicely.......:thumbsup:

Maybe needed once one gets 30K-60K miles on the engine, or if one does a lot of track racing. Good quality gas, i.e. Tier One, will help keep engines at peak performance.

Hmm, the 10.9 Metric Class bolt is only equivalent to SAE Grade 5 bolt and I believe the standard in most automotive bolts is Grade 8, which would equate to 12.9 Metric Class. Before going the weld route maybe get some Grade 8 or Class 12.9 bolts and re-install????

With cold weather upon us and snow in the forecast, put the horse up for the winter.

That's a very nice garage or your horse is parked in the living room......:confused:

As Confucius would say, You Get What You Pay For.

Viofo's are pretty small and highly rated.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Below is a good article on wheels. Bottom line-for racing forged is recommended, but you can get by with flow formed. For normal, day to day driving, go cast I road raced on flow formed wheels for over 10 years and found them to be acceptable and affordable. About a quarter of the cost of...

Mary Kay Rep??

I was asked a lot by folks what my setting was, when they'd see the car in the garage at race events and the tires were heavily angled....:shock:

When I got serious about road racing (back in 2012), I invested in M&M Camber Plates and Longacre Digital C/C Gauge w AccuLevel™ and Quick Set™ Adapter. This made setting the Camber sooo easy. I pretty much ran -3* camber up front and had the rears set at -1* (done by race shop). Depending on...

Are your sunglasses to big for the holder? My Oakley's wont fit so I've turned to the visor clips.

Naaaaa, SPONGE BOB SQUARE PANTS are the best.

Contact Race Ramps Sales & Support. They're Customer Service is excellent and might possibly send you a new set and upon receipt, you send back the old ones, all at no charge.

Cost for one. MC FA-2066, depending on where you shop, costs $18.78 - 28.99 ea. or $57.96 a pair (from Steeda) The others you listed run from $145 to $169 a pair. And I've yet to see any data/testing that shows filters significantly better than MC.