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What MPH/gear do you cross in the 1/4? @HWill Because my Calc is saying it’d be well over 8K with no real headroom for any more MPH I currently cross around 6900 with 3.15s on a 28, and the 28 is a bias ply probably growing to almost 29

Thinking a GM in house vehicle can compare to a bespoke multimatic car is the disconnect from what I’m reading.

Yes, MPH up top. You do not want the 10R80 shifting into 7th at WOT at higher HP levels. 3:15s prevent that from being an issue

I’m expecting it to be 5-600lbs lighter than the ZR1. GTD somewhere around 32-3300 ish… ZR1 closer to 38-3900 ish. Hell, boschma just got his S650 down to 3150 without anything exotic and full IRS.

No you can’t lol, maybe now you can go buy a leftover c7 ZR1 5 years later for 200K.

So let’s nail this down some… I think the ZR1 is going to be 300K plus (msrp is not part of the discussion unless you’re jay leno or Johnny GM) And it won’t be within 10 seconds of the GTD. Further proving the BARGAIN… that the GTD is. If they say they’re targeting sub 7, I think they’re going...

I don’t think the ZR1 is what some of you all are thinking. The GTD will be significantly quicker, and the ZR1 will be significantly MORE expensive. People are way offsides on this one.

Go dig up this thread from the Ecat if you want to learn more

Because this was cleared up pre vehicle launch a year and a half ago… same with cylinder deactivation.

Go ask in the F150 forums… Unbelievable the level of misinformation about 24 mustangs

Afaik it’s just the Anderson composite piece paint matched.

Yeah, I was surprised lidio trapped 2mph slower than me on more boost, with a CF driveshaft and on drag radials. He’ll really turn that car up given the chance and I know (in the past) he’ll drop a 50-75 shot right into that blower. That’s what I’ve been wanting to see done, just a simple stand...

Dark horse > RTR all day.

The kooks has 2 different options, connect to factory with the 2 1/4 neck down or 3” You maybe just need a pair of these in the pic.

So for my 2 cents, I think it’s just initial input that’s numb. If I’m really pushing it through corners, I have excellent feedback, but it comes when I’m really hanging a corner hard. If you’re mildly taking corners and bends then I completely understand what people are saying.

In order since I got the car. 1. Steeda progressive lowering springs. 2. Steeda cradle bushings/locating dowels. 3. Kooks headers into stock resonator/catback active. 4. Drag wheels, race star rears, sve fronts, MT bias plys 5. Whipple stage 2. Things I have but need to install still 1. GT350...

God forbid they tap in and put something with the 5.4 coyote race engines out for us 🙄 We could all be rolling 600 plus N/A if they’d let us.

If I was trying to get a specialty car in the 40/50 range a 13/14 Shelby GT500 is the move. If you’re looking for new, I can’t see anything with a predator engine costing sub 100K, it will likely be closer to150K plus ADM closer to 200ish. At that point just go McLaren.

There was a fully lightweight s550/6r80 blower car 79 mm pulley slicks/skinnies, fuel system/e85. Super nice guy/car…. Running 10.7s @ 131 And he came and talked to me, very nice and VERY impressed by my times, he was in quite a state of disbelief actually.

Solid run for sure! My biggest takeaway is he’s using paddle shifters to go faster in manual mode. I need to experiment with that next time out. He didn’t say the difference, maybe he’ll comment on that