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Biggest problem is the MPH/RPM limiter. And the smaller throttle body, and octane so make sure you’re running either good E30 mix or 93 and boostane… 93 alone is barely adequate for a 3.75 pulley iirc.

Tell that to my friends literally working at FRAP.

Yes, from what I’ve read, stage 2 only

I just did a neighborhood warm up drive, so no WOT rips, i threw it in sport and immediately noticed. 1 they tightened up drive by wire delay, 2 it holds rpm longer before shifts and 3. The shifts are waaay snappier… im sure drag has changes similar at WOT

For anyone not on the boards, just fill out a req form and email, they just sent me the 2.0 tune… I’ll upload after lunch livernois worked with whipple for drag strip testing, shifts, rpm, performance specifications. they went 9.7 at 143 on pump 93 with this new tune.

Bro… go buy a fox or something with a high lift, solid roller cam setup . or a LS vehicle with a nasty cam. The whole point of variable cam timing is not needing to grind in a ton of overlap and duration.

Ok… everything but the whine part, buy the roush if that’s something you’re into

It’s not gonna whine like a TVS. I pullied down to a 3.5, with the exhaust in quiet mode with the windows down you’ll hear the compressor “sing” more… so if you want more compressor noise, pull the lids off.. or run the comp air box. You can also do like I did and pulley down to spin it higher...

It’s my understanding that you only buy a CF driveshaft if you plan on breaking it, they shatter and disintegrate when they break, so it keeps from damaging the underside of your car..(where aluminum shafts can wreck a lot)

They just seem to shatter in drag racing applications, I’ll keep my stocker

I like Shaun, I used AED for years, he needs to flip the block over, he kept it upside down so we can’t see if the extra oil galleys, etc are in there. Differences shown by livernois at 4:50, they even say same casting number carried over

@Mr Hyde … show us the new seat covers!

@135Hoser , no warranty up here. That’s for stage 1 frpp kits. and going that route is kind of a waste, the warranty isn’t all it’s cracked up to be… Money better spent on aluminator if anything ever lets go.

Yeah get the audio control LC2i and you use speaker level inputs and it turns itself on, then use the remote out to the amp.

Great job, i also DIY’d mine… took 3-4 hours a day throughout the week.. great work. these cars are absolute monsters, i put a 3.5 pulley on and ran a high 9 without even trying.

I wouldn’t even call that a gap, that’s top down view correct? The hood to front bumper cover? Looks perfect

Because profit margins are significantly lower on verts… so by you not getting those items it helps to add back to bottom line margins on the car.

Sit in the back seat, pull down the rear of the headliner (it’s magnetic) disconnect the plug up there (there is only the one) It’s ANC anti noise canceling. It will solve 99% of the problem if not 100%

Trying for Under MSRP when they’re getting ready for a 5-7k price HIKE in 2025 is crazy work to me…

Steeda progressive. And I recommend them highly!! Excellent product, fit and finish