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That's very interesting. But, it won't affect my tyre choice. I've bought Euro brands for years now, after poor performance from Bridgestone and Hankook made me look elsewhere. Although I've never bought Pirelli, the ones I've had were OE. And I've always used Michelin or Metzeler on bikes.

I think we do disagree. I don't think the talented people who design a mass production engine that makes 100hp per litre, spins to 7.5k or more, and then put a 5 year warranty on it, would not know the best way to break in that engine so as to ensure long reliable life and not have to pay out...

That had me second guesssing myself. I've just checked the expansion tank, and if you look down the filler hole there is a small bypass port into the unsealed part of the cap.

Any residue on the garage floor? Also, the expansion tank vents to the atmosphere, so it's possible you're getting a whiff of that. To put your mind at rest, get the cooling system tested for combustion gases in the coolant. It's a simple test. Or buy a test kit yourself.

Sorry, but that is bullshit. Fine if you ditch a car every three or four years, the next owner ( sucker) gets the downside. All that he's doing is getting quickly what 5000kms normal running will get you, but shortening engine life by doing so. Racing teams break in engines with that method...

Muchly appreciated Thanks

Yeah, I've got that too. But I'm just going to put ceramic pads on the front. Thanks

You're trading instant gratification for long term devotion.

Having modded a few cars, I'll stick to mostly factory now. Modded cars can be a PIA as a daily driver. Like the Sebring MX5 I did. The supercharger support/adjustment bracket broke while on a road trip. Luckily I had tools and could remove the belt and carry on N/A. There's always something to...

I want, no..... need, a lightweight N/A GTD for $NZ110,000. I don't think I'm asking for much Mr Ford.

Nothing's slower than an abused engine that's gradually lost compression and oil control after a hard break in.

Thanks, but I meant the full workshop manual. I guess I'll have to release the moths from my wallet and buy one.

Blue does not suit that body style.

If I was continually giving it the beans in a hot climate I'd use 5w-40. But I don't, 5w-30 will do fine. I do not trust 5W-20 though, and I believe Toyota (I think) is speccing 0w-8 or 0w-16. You may as well just pee in the oil pan.

I've attended few car fires, only one was fatal. They were hit so hard from behind that the fuel tank was crushed and fuel sprayed throughout the passenger compartment, the two young guys had no chance to get out, although it appeared the driver had tried to open his brothers passenger door...

Good for you, keeping at them paid off. Now you have the joy of break in, all over again :wink:

Thank you, I suspected that, but don't have a manual.

If you just replace front pads (barely worn) on the Brembo system, do you have to use Brake service Mode?

If you think braking is almost as much fun as accelerating, go the whole hog and get at least front Brembos or APR caliper and rotor set up.

That'll be the "inferno" model then.