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Mine lags at times, though most of the time it's fine. A shut down restart usually fixes any lag The USB menu is not the easiest to navigate, though love that option. If you organize it into folders on the drive it makes it a little nicer for manually navigating, though you can use voice...

That sound a little like the famous BBQ/typewriter tick though mines on the passenger side. Ironically, I took mine in for first change, 1500 miles (full synthetic) and sure enough, got home and I have it now. I have noticed the last week has been hot and humid as all hell (accounts for the...

Damn, glad you are alright... I would fight for new car replacement, depreciation is bad enough on these add in a car fax hit, no way. Hope you get it worked out in your favor BTW, how is your neck feeling?

I can confirm, just removed mine. Removed the left and right 10mm bolts. Carefully used a heat gun and floss, it helps if you have someone manning the heat gun and lifting as you floss it. Just have to be a little careful the outer two center holes are plastic clips and I could see if too...

I agree, looks pretty good, though that angle just doesn't cut like the OEM

I would have went with DAR, though it does not cover the center hole on the lid. Anyway, It all worked out and I love the way it looks now, the blade was a joke

He raised the price, they were $500 obo when I got one. Not impressed with any of the aftermarket spoilers wanted OEM. One I got was fine, had some scratches, had it taken apart and body shop matched the Ford black on NP parts all together $775 vs $3K-$4K from the dealer.

It's legit, $400 spoiler + $375 paint shop... looks amazing. Also worth noting, you only need to remove the 2- 10mm bolts under the rubber grommets in the trunk to pop the blade spoiler and install this. Most videos out there say you have to remove the entire deck lid. Not for the OEM, dropped...

Were getting close to hell round here too, though I'm seeing those engine temps consistently when its sunny 95 out or a cool 59 degree night. This coyote just seems to run hot, full synthetic 5w30. God forbid I pop the hood, could literally fry an egg on anything under there. Seriously think it...

Same thing here, yesterday got it back from the dealer. On mine it only seems to be happening on my Personal Profile 1. If I create and save one on 2 or 3 it is normal. Not going back to the dealer. Tomorrow going to try a system reset, and battery disconnect. I'll report back

You ever figure out what was causing this? Mine started doing the same thing, I have it set "Match to Drive Mode" when I restart the cluster is defaulting to Calm.

My car was fine from day 1, suddenly 6 months later, took it to the DEALER for an oil change and NOW I have this same issue. Memory 1 Profile button always reverts to Calm screen... I have tried deleting all profiles, and starting over and every time I try to save my Profile to Memory 1, Calm...

Thought I was lucky, got mine no tick... at 1400 miles took it to the dealer for it's first change, Motorcraft Full Synthetic... got home pulled into the garage... BBQ tick:headbang:

Ok thought you said in the video you ran it parallel... The OEM amp is 4ohm correct? So from the OEM sub wire, you spliced both pos together and ran the wire to the pos coil on the speaker, same with the OEM neg to the other coil and then a jumper wire (series)+ to- on the speaker? TIA

Nice... Exactly what I'm looking for. Did you just need 1 of the wiring harness, it connected to the OEM sub cable and then hook up to one side of the terminals of the speaker?

Suddenly my 401A feels like a bargain

Yep, I have a nice row on my Nite Pony wheels... much better than the old school wheel weights

Never seen 24 PP spoiler up close, or how they compare to gen6... do these look legit? Here's the link eBay 2024 PP Spoiler

Anyone know where to find the specs of the B&O system? Where is the amp? Wattage, OHM's etc... TIA

Nice!! So you just swapped the sub, no additional amp? You said run 500 watt RMS to the sub, and the OEM system has 1000 watts? How did you determine how many watts are going to the sub? So Parallel, you just tapped the OEM positive/negative and ran a pos/neg to each positive terminal on the...