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Does the $35 VEVOR pressure tester kit have a cap that fits Mustangs?

Why do you guys always want to put shorter tires on the rear of the car than the front? Get the 305/35's

Imagine if you had done 4.10 or 4.30's

I'm guessing that Excel screenshot is from the OP I'd be running the $15/jug semi-synthetic for the first couple break-in changes, it's only 2,500 miles. Then run 'good' oil for the first 'regular' interval change That said what else do you expect for a new motor...I guess it doesn't hurt to...

Have to re-calc the offsets when you change wheel width

Also Dynocom makes a bunch of different dynos, hub and drum. The internet always seems to talk shit about how high Cleetus's hub Dynocom reads

This member made 429 on a Dynocom on 91 octane https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/dyno-results.166972/#post-3362115

Guys were making 430+ on the dyno when the S650 first came out

Guys use a radial tire like that all the time. Remember the speed rating is what the tire is rated to run at for 10 minutes, 10 seconds + slowdown won't hurt it.

Talking about the non supercharged Cobras from 1996-2001

Remember in the caveman days, the Cobra came with a 4.6 32V DOHC engine, barely revved to 7,000 Ford gave the cars 3.27 which was a complete joke. Anyone who wanted the car to feel like it should put 4.10, 4.30, or 4.56 gears in it And that was basically a requirement if you upgraded to the...

20% drivetrain loss isn't anywhere close. It's not a 1979 Mustang

What gear was it in? How hot was the car? Are those numbers STD or SAE? I'd expect to see another 15hp out of a car like that but what do other S650's make on that same dyno? That's a better baseline. You can't compare dyno to dyno. Your HP peak being at 6700rpm is a little low, if you look...

"Things that don't actually happen in your cars engine in a year"

So what in the oil magically goes bad after sitting a year? Turns acidic? TBN numbers on year old oil prove this isn't a problem. The truly insane change it every 6 months, or put fresh oil in the car to let it sit all winter, then change it again when they bring it out in the spring...

If it's the original oil that came in the car, get it changed. Otherwise, if you're only putting 2,000 miles on the car per year, you're wasting money changing it every year 'just because'. Reset the oil life meter and change it next year.

OP's car feels slow because he's sitting there with the pedal to the floor from 81mph to 120mph, shifts one time, then waits in that gear until 170mph. And the car is hitting each gear 1000rpm lower than a 10R80 would, so it's out of the power peak.

So we're measuring cars by worst case times now? Guys go 5mph faster than that stock. And a tune only 6-speed Mustang is not going to touch that. The hellcat beaters are 10r80 cars with bolt-ons

:thumbsup: Don't fear the gear. Only going up one ratio is a waste. Also, you're spending money to change the gears, that'll dwarf any fuel savings gain/loss you get. Let's just say you somehow lost 2mpg. at $5/gallon you're basically looking at a measley $310 over 10,000 miles ($2531 vs...

What do you think they could possibly change to increase performance that isn't there on the non-header tune? You're flowing a couple % more air through your engine after you put headers on it. Your car will adjust the tiny bit more of fuel on it's own. Other than that...