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I did look how it was falling onto the BCM, the connectors themselves are pretty well sealed so I'd imagine its just enough to get in and cause a bit of corrosion. most of the water ended up inside from the top of the BCM and just sat at the bottom. I was able to shake a decent amount out of it...

You cannot update the APIM without FDRS. Forscan wont do it even with the beta versions. FDRS does some special function to trigger the update through USB. Ford locked this down a little more probably due to what happened with SYNC 3.

Hey! Ford actually did epoxy the entire board. every side is epoxied, and only the connectors seem to be exposed (which makes sense). As for the gold plating, It didn't look to be but I could have missed that. If it is gold plated it would be on the harness side!

https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/new-recall-water-intrusion-into-bcm-and-connectors-25c43-25v546.170702/ post#4 shows it!

It was raining while I was driving, so i'd imagine yes.

Noticed yesterday coming home my Interior Overhead lights were stuck on and occasionally flickered. Decided to check the BCM and sure enough water was coming out of it and hanging out all on the connectors. For those who have not had their recall done, check your connectors and BCM! This is a...

Photo at the workplace after applying ceramic coating

I kind of went the same route as you did. went from a 2013 V6 to a 2018 GT Premium and now a 2024 GT Premium. I can agree with literally every single point you brought up except magneride ONLY because I don't have it and never have. solid write-up! I also went from 3.15s to 3.55s so the gas...

Running with Wengerd on mine. The 10R80 difference between this tune and stock is night and day. no more gears being skipped on normal driving and it just feels so much smoother. I'm using PCMTec so I've ran on both 93 and e85. Both are amazing tunes. I do not do Drag Racing nor track, but I...

It definitely isn't an easy diagnosis if you've never done any back tracing like this, so no one would blame you if you didn't even want to attempt that

I don't see you having to take that off, you will have to read the diagrams roket sent earlier in the thread and trace each wire with a multimeter if you are determined to get this working or not. Before any of that, definitely do forscan stuff first, and I'd even recommend posting your settings...

It really sounds like something wiring related is going on. I would say Roket is pretty much spot on how how you'd have to diagnose this. That being individually tracing the wires to the PCM and ensuring there's a connection there. other than that if forscan is all correct there should be no...

This is the other thread about this issue. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/singular-knock-on-warm-start.171053/#post-3427949

I've had this happen on mine since owning it. Never had any issues with mine. I've seen where others have had It too. That being said yours sounds WAY louder than I've heard and I'd say take it to the dealer because of that.

Eventually I’ll try and look into the legality of these files if no one releases them beforehand. I’m sure it isn’t that big of a deal but I just want to be safe haha

Under the IPC easy mode you should see a Splash Screen option. Choose Splash Screen #2 and you should get it Personally I haven’t posted them publicly because I have no clue about the legality of the files being in the open. Not a lawyer and not trying to get myself in trouble that way lol.

Ah, thought you meant the 3d model. You can do that already in the easy mode with forscan for both screens

I believe the original dark horse is no different than a GT. Why? I don’t know ford was lazy I guess lol. If I’m missing something anybody is welcome to correct me (please do)

Ah, yeah it'll stop the light dance completely when it gets low, glad its working!

check to make sure this is actually enabled if you haven't already. Only thing I can think of based off of what you wrote besides reprogramming again