Search results

Butchers🤬

I use this. Form a funnel.

I grab where the latch is and bring the hood down swiftly in one continuous motion removing my hand about one quarter of the way down. I have seen aluminum hoods get dimples from hands pushing from the top. This way I never get finger prints to wipe off.

It's not hard to do your own water test and inspection. Anyone that has had the fix done and still has water coming in more than likely didn't have it done properly. They are suppose to retest after the fix is done. If the fix was right and water is coming in its coming from somewhere else...

Make the strap proper length so it does not end up in the gasket. Never had a hand or fingers get caught in closing lid. Touching the paint on the edges to close can over time wear paint especially when hands might be dirty. Everyone has their own ideas for what works for them.

Mine looks similar. I did this after the second week of ownership. The decklid closes easy when cooler. If the car has been in the sun it closes with more resistance once the strut assists get hot.

They should do a vacuum with a leak down test. Hope its a o-ring seal and not in the evaporator/condensor or compressor seal. These systems have very little freon compaired to the ones yesteryear. A small loss of freon will cause the system to not work.

It takes 2 to 3 weeks.

No one else is having your issues. Get it fixed or sell it. Its so very hard to understand someone compain and then post and not taking effort to do anything about it.🤬

@Junkyard Dog I did mine as my installer didn't charge me any additional.

If the present fix is not working and Ford is coming out with a new one in few months gives me new thoughts. There must be another issue causing water intrusion from a different area. The way they slopped black crap in areas should have stopped water from a hurrican.

The way you go through new cars I wouldn't worry about it. I use rubber pad on a low profile jack and have no rust or flaking paint issues.

The last letter I received from Ford was for an inspection only. No water intrusion no fix needed. I did my own inspection and water test using Ford proceedures. Some day I may let the dealer clear my recall but not until Ford gets its act together.

Gen 1 Coyotes had compaints of excessive oil consumption. If I remember Ford has always had a very loose spec on oil usage before they would do any warrany work going back years. Ford has had loose specs on things like A/C output, tie rods, brake runout and differential noise among other...

Having a 5amp Noco on proper charging connections the car will go into sleep mode after 14 days. After starting the car it will show 14v charge rate then lower to 13.5v after a short drive then 12.7v. If anyone wants to save yourself a headache use a maintainer it will be topped off even...

That cluck is from the two piece driveshaft when shifting at low speeds and clutch and shift timing is off. Get a one piece and 95% clunck will be gone. Shaftmasters for the win.

@Cipis After eleven years the PPF on my 2011 was still protecting. It was a top quality product at the time (Xpel). My cars are always garaged but I did notice some slight discoloring. Newer products have been introduced that have far greater improvements and that is what I wanted. Removing...

There is no easy or shortcut way. Remove the side skirts. Treat surface rust with a neutralizer prime and repaint. If DIYvan doesn't ship you can replace the innerfenders with the new Ford part that doesn't have the holes.

What is the deal? I was under the impression that Ford changed the fix to a water intrusion inpection at the BCM first. Then if the fix was needed it was done. Ford requires photos to document the fix. I wouldn't think Ford wants to pay for a fix that maynot be needed.

What were the peddle problems with past Mustangs? The peddles look like the ones in my 2011 and 2024 except having one missing. Not many haviing this problem or it would be an expedited issue.