Moving A 2024 GT In Neutral?

[MAT1955]

A couple of years ago we had to move my friend's 2021 GT (automatic tranny) while in storage. The battery had died and we could not access it for a boost. It was left in park so we didn't want to try to move it. We had to remove the shifter boot and slide a part forward to unlock the shifter to shift it into neutral to move it. The whole deal was a real pita. My 2024 GT is now in storage. The last two winters I have started it every 3 weeks+/- without any issue, it fired right up. That said, at the moment it is parked nose first to a wall that would not allow access to boost the battery - if it died. I can move the Mustang back from the wall but that sticks its butt out a bit into the garage driving area (condo) So....question: if I leave it against the wall BUT shift it into neutral each time after I run it (of course putting chocks on a wheel to prevent it moving) would I be able to push it "by hand" if the battery died or is there some sort of electrical brake or something else that would stop me from manually moving it?

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[LouG]

I can't imagine the emergency brake applying itself. But I won't be surprised if it does.

 

[Neggytive]

buy a jump pack

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Get a battery tender/trickle charger and you won't have to worry about it.

 

[GrabberB]

I not 100% sure on the following. Sounds like you intend to leave the car in neutral and apply the parking brake and use wheel/tire chocks. If the battery dies in storage I don't think you be able to release the parking brake. If possible, I would simulate this in advance and see what happens.


Edit add - If you plan to leave it in neutral, not apply the parking brake and use wheel chocks seems like your plan would work.

 

[MAT1955]

@GrabberB .....yes, that was my plan. I can not plug in a trickle charger as there is no outlet in the condo's garage and unless I kept the nose of the car off the wall I would have no access to put on my lithium charger pack. Also i can't back nit into the spot as it's against a concrete wall and i wouldn't be able to get out - so it's nose first into the spot. As Grabber B suggested I will do a mock-up run to see if that works. Thank you very much to all who took the time to offer your thoughtful answers - as usual a great bunch of guys!

 

[Zig]

Something like this may make accessing a trunk located battery easier.

https://lmr.com/item/UPR-9005/Mustang-Battery-Relocation-Kit

 

[Vapor]

@GrabberB .....yes, that was my plan. I can not plug in a trickle charger as there is no outlet in the condo's garage and unless I kept the nose of the car off the wall I would have no access to put on my lithium charger pack. Also i can't back nit into the spot as it's against a concrete wall and i wouldn't be able to get out - so it's nose first into the spot. As Grabber B suggested I will do a mock-up run to see if that works. Thank you very much to all who took the time to offer your thoughtful answers - as usual a great bunch of guys!

If you have access in the condo's garage with sun light this would work........

https://www.grainger.com/product/BA...ics=FM:PLA&a2c_sku_original=857C61&position=1

 

[MAT1955]

You guys are awesome. So many great suggestions! Friend suggested I connect a set of booster cables to my battery and locate them under the front of the Mustang where I could unwind them and boost it without moving the car. As he noted just be careful to ensure they stayed isolated from each other. I could attach them to a 2x6 and put it in a plastic tool box with some modifications to the box, that way I could open it up if there were a problem and use the cable ends as boost points. If I do this I would need cables 8-10 feet long and I'd use a "thicker" aka lower gauge wire.

 

[Gregs24]

I can't imagine the emergency brake applying itself. But I won't be surprised if it does.

It doesn't - I rarely use mine in my garage to avoid the pads sticking to the discs when wet / damp.

 

[Zig]

You'd have to study the lengths and gauges for this application and fabrication, but roughing out ideas...here are some quick connect solutions. These'll keep everything separated, while supporting any needed power transfers. A short jumper would be attached to the battery. A long jumper would be outside, ready for attachment to the vehicle.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-quick-disconnect-plugs-and-connectors

These completed units would not necessarily support the length or the transfer amperage, but give an idea what the end product would look like.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...8u02nhx4rG3Qu0YZz3iAU30Wnj6KkuIBoC9OwQAvD_BwE

https://invertersrus.com/product/sp...gc1lSiemuurFprIOMcSov1k8EC-DGpIRoCmYIQAvD_BwE

Maybe a jump pack outside, with one quick connect. The other, wired to the car and tucked up somewhere.

In another option, I'd reach out to the condo owner or board about installing a single, 120V/15A outlet in that area. You'd pay for this. The work would be done by an electrician and be up to any codes. The battery tender can just sit on the ground, the hock up run to the side of the car you have access to. It'd keep the battery peaked up, while conditioning it as well.

Or you could add a second battery to the trunk and use a switch to select between the two.

 

[Zig]

It's a solution that adds two things: weight and complication.

Given all the choices, I'd pursue the outlet. If the outlet is a hard no, having some access to jump seems the simplest and cheapest solution.

YMMV.

Unfortunately the outlet gets left behind and the next location would potentially require another, expense compare - more secure than remote tucked away fire cables (jump point?) ?

 

[robvas]

Set of wheel dollies....

 

[BimmerDriver]

You could run an adequate (10?) gauge wire from the positive battery post to the trunk, and then use that and any decent ground to jump it off if needed. Not much weight, don't have to remember to leave it in neutral, etc.

If you don't take it out often (which I'm guessing you don't in the Winter) then perhaps back it in and just crawl over the passenger seat?

 

[robvas]

You could run an adequate (10?) gauge wire from the positive battery post to the trunk, and then use that and any decent ground to jump it off if needed. Not much weight, don't have to remember to leave it in neutral, etc.

If you don't take it out often (which I'm guessing you don't in the Winter) then perhaps back it in and just crawl over the passenger seat?

6-4 would be the minimum

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