MAZ Terminator Carbon Fiber Hood install pics and notes… full and unbiased

[TwiztdWun]

First off, I would like to say Madhav Chawla at MAZ ( Muscle Auto Zone )has a great product. I am more than pleased with the hood. There were questions in other posts and threads people had, I will answer them here plus a few things of what to expect after you get your hood.

First, expect that the package/crate is going to get knocked over in shipping. The good news is that Madhav has packed it so well in the box, it will not matter. It is packed well and packed tight.

The factory hood weighs 35 pounds without any hardware. The MAZ hood weighs 30 pounds without any hardware. I recommend using your original nuts from the hinges on the new hood as they have a bigger washer on them. You will need 2 M6x18 button head screws for the latch catch. I recommend this length so you can utilize a lock washer with a bigger washer and still get plenty of threads into the hood. The original hood uses studs and nuts. Those are of no use to you.

You will need to remove the two front seals and the long rear seal from your old hood and put them on the new hood. You may find on the new hood like I did, the holes are a little too small for the push in retainers. You may also notice a few holes were missed, but you will see where they were supposed to go. You may notice a couple holes are not extactly in the correct location. Simply drill a new hole in the correct location.

You will need to remove the insulator from your old hood to take off the windshield washer lines and squirters. The insulator is not used on the new hood. You will need to drill a couple holes for the squirter hoses to pass through on the new hood. The line that feeds both squirters has press in fittings that are not utilized on the new hood as the new hood does not have the crossbar support the old hood did. I am currently using sticky back zip-tie mounts. I do not know if they will hold. If they do not, I will remove the sticky back and use an epoxy to mount them to the hood to keep the line off the engine.

The cowl does not seem to affect visibility while driving any more than the original did. If it does, it is not by much.

The fit and finish is really good. Are there any small waves in the hood? A couple small ones. I expected much worse. This isn’t a body panel off a million dollar super car. I am very impressed with how well it looks.

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[TwiztdWun]

I missed a couple things in my post.

You can use your hood supports. You just need to close it carefully and not try to slam it like a gorilla. Guide it down slowly… then give it that final push to latch it.

I do not have the hood pins in yet. I feel if I keep to normal highway speeds, it will be fine until I get them delivered and installed. The new hood is actually more stiff than the old hood. I do recommend getting hood pins though.

 

[Joe_Stang]

Looks awesome!

 

[Wiley Marmot]

Lookin' Bad Ass!

 

[connerd2002]

Looks great

 

[broncoboy22]

Thanks for the review! Plans to paint it or you sticking with bare carbon fiber?

 

[connerd2002]

Well the carbon fiber, imo is pretty good.

 

[TheYankeeMarshal]

Oh, there's finger prints on it. You don't want that. Take it off and give it to me.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

I imagine theres a decent amount of upkeep on this, right? Is there some sort of product you have to apply to keep that topcoat from yellowing/oxidizing in the light?

 

[MAZMadhav]

First off, I would like to say Madhav Chawla at MAZ ( Muscle Auto Zone )has a great product. I am more than pleased with the hood. There were questions in other posts and threads people had, I will answer them here plus a few things of what to expect after you get your hood.

First, expect that the package/crate is going to get knocked over in shipping. The good news is that Madhav has packed it so well in the box, it will not matter. It is packed well and packed tight.

The factory hood weighs 35 pounds without any hardware. The MAZ hood weighs 30 pounds without any hardware. I recommend using your original nuts from the hinges on the new hood as they have a bigger washer on them. You will need 2 M6x18 button head screws for the latch catch. I recommend this length so you can utilize a lock washer with a bigger washer and still get plenty of threads into the hood. The original hood uses studs and nuts. Those are of no use to you.

You will need to remove the two front seals and the long rear seal from your old hood and put them on the new hood. You may find on the new hood like I did, the holes are a little too small for the push in retainers. You may also notice a few holes were missed, but you will see where they were supposed to go. You may notice a couple holes are not extactly in the correct location. Simply drill a new hole in the correct location.

You will need to remove the insulator from your old hood to take off the windshield washer lines and squirters. The insulator is not used on the new hood. You will need to drill a couple holes for the squirter hoses to pass through on the new hood. The line that feeds both squirters has press in fittings that are not utilized on the new hood as the new hood does not have the crossbar support the old hood did. I am currently using sticky back zip-tie mounts. I do not know if they will hold. If they do not, I will remove the sticky back and use an epoxy to mount them to the hood to keep the line off the engine.

The cowl does not seem to affect visibility while driving any more than the original did. If it does, it is not by much.

The fit and finish is really good. Are there any small waves in the hood? A couple small ones. I expected much worse. This isn’t a body panel off a million dollar super car. I am very impressed with how well it looks.

Thanks for the review! Looks great!

 

[MustangMental]

How is the heat management with this hood, better worse or no impact than the oem hood?

 

[TwiztdWun]

How is the heat management with this hood, better worse or no impact than the oem hood?

No heat issues at all here in Ohio weather getting 95+ degree days. You can remove the panels that open up the vents if you want. I have had the need to, but I also do not track my car.

 

[CarsAndWines]

Hood pins are highly recommended! My Cervini Shelby style hood opened up at about 70 mph after a rock or something hit it, causing $24K in repairs on a 2022 GT.

 

[Paul's stable]

First off, I would like to say Madhav Chawla at MAZ ( Muscle Auto Zone )has a great product. I am more than pleased with the hood. There were questions in other posts and threads people had, I will answer them here plus a few things of what to expect after you get your hood.

First, expect that the package/crate is going to get knocked over in shipping. The good news is that Madhav has packed it so well in the box, it will not matter. It is packed well and packed tight.

The factory hood weighs 35 pounds without any hardware. The MAZ hood weighs 30 pounds without any hardware. I recommend using your original nuts from the hinges on the new hood as they have a bigger washer on them. You will need 2 M6x18 button head screws for the latch catch. I recommend this length so you can utilize a lock washer with a bigger washer and still get plenty of threads into the hood. The original hood uses studs and nuts. Those are of no use to you.

You will need to remove the two front seals and the long rear seal from your old hood and put them on the new hood. You may find on the new hood like I did, the holes are a little too small for the push in retainers. You may also notice a few holes were missed, but you will see where they were supposed to go. You may notice a couple holes are not extactly in the correct location. Simply drill a new hole in the correct location.

You will need to remove the insulator from your old hood to take off the windshield washer lines and squirters. The insulator is not used on the new hood. You will need to drill a couple holes for the squirter hoses to pass through on the new hood. The line that feeds both squirters has press in fittings that are not utilized on the new hood as the new hood does not have the crossbar support the old hood did. I am currently using sticky back zip-tie mounts. I do not know if they will hold. If they do not, I will remove the sticky back and use an epoxy to mount them to the hood to keep the line off the engine.

The cowl does not seem to affect visibility while driving any more than the original did. If it does, it is not by much.

The fit and finish is really good. Are there any small waves in the hood? A couple small ones. I expected much worse. This isn’t a body panel off a million dollar super car. I am very impressed with how well it looks.

Very cool looking piece. I just don't like the slot for air across the front. Reminds me of past Corvette, Camaro hoods and I didn't like them back then. my preference would be a flatter hood with the side air vents. However it's your car and it looks good.

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