djcwardog
V8 Driver
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2017
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 26
- Location
- Central KY
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Mustang GT 300A
- Thread starter
- #1
My 300a car had the base system. It had a woofer in each door plus a tweeter in the A pillar, and 2 woofers on the packages tray. I wanted to use a set of 3-way Focal 165AS3 as I love the way they have sounded in my other cars. These would definitely be rated a “DOES NOT FIT” by Crutchfield (due to the depth of the midrange) if they would ever do one of these newest Mustangs. Not to worry, I car crafted these into place! I only had time today to do my left door. Here are a few photos and details. It’s basically like we did on the S550, but remember that there is very little space behind the opening for the midrange mounted high in the door.
Pop out the small panel behind your door lever. That shiny bolt takes a 10mm socket. Do same for the switch panel (carefully pry it up with your plastic pry tool) and you’ll find another 10mm bolt. Withdraw both bolts.
You have a pair of 7mm screws aslong the bottom of your door panel. This one is out.
This is the other 7mm bolt, waiting for you.
Pry out the top of the A pillar trim panel. You have to rotate (twice!) that plastic retainer in order to get the panel out of the car.
Stock tweeter, unplugged. My new tweeter was much larger so I had to cut into that mounting ring enough to have what was left secure my new tweeter. NOT for the faint of heart!
My midrange was way too deep to fit in the shallow opening so I did two things. 1) I used a jigsaw to cut into the second (slightly deeper) metal of the door and then used a chisel to beat the cut pieces back enough to allow more room for the magnet of my new mids.
Using just two long sheet metal screws and a pair of 1/2” spacers, I got the mid driver in. Used some dynomat as an insulating ring arou d the driver to seal it.
All this trouble just to now see an aramid fiber midrange where there was nothing….worth it!
There’s a nice “shelf” in the door just below the woofer opening. I used dynomat to secure my 3-way crossover there. To wire this up: pop in the rubber boot where the factory woofer plug is found. Push that wire back through the door Opening, then pop the boot back into place. Use your Metra speaker plug to feed the signal FROM this harness INTO your crossover as the INPUT. Run new wire from crossover to all three drivers. For the tweeter this means running speaker wire back from door into body of the car and up to the tweeter area.
Pop out the small panel behind your door lever. That shiny bolt takes a 10mm socket. Do same for the switch panel (carefully pry it up with your plastic pry tool) and you’ll find another 10mm bolt. Withdraw both bolts.
You have a pair of 7mm screws aslong the bottom of your door panel. This one is out.
This is the other 7mm bolt, waiting for you.
Pry out the top of the A pillar trim panel. You have to rotate (twice!) that plastic retainer in order to get the panel out of the car.
Stock tweeter, unplugged. My new tweeter was much larger so I had to cut into that mounting ring enough to have what was left secure my new tweeter. NOT for the faint of heart!
My midrange was way too deep to fit in the shallow opening so I did two things. 1) I used a jigsaw to cut into the second (slightly deeper) metal of the door and then used a chisel to beat the cut pieces back enough to allow more room for the magnet of my new mids.
Using just two long sheet metal screws and a pair of 1/2” spacers, I got the mid driver in. Used some dynomat as an insulating ring arou d the driver to seal it.
All this trouble just to now see an aramid fiber midrange where there was nothing….worth it!
There’s a nice “shelf” in the door just below the woofer opening. I used dynomat to secure my 3-way crossover there. To wire this up: pop in the rubber boot where the factory woofer plug is found. Push that wire back through the door Opening, then pop the boot back into place. Use your Metra speaker plug to feed the signal FROM this harness INTO your crossover as the INPUT. Run new wire from crossover to all three drivers. For the tweeter this means running speaker wire back from door into body of the car and up to the tweeter area.
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