Jivor
Well-Known Member
As long as you're not upside down on your loan, aka if the car is worth more than the remaining balance, then the dealership will pay off the loan on trade in and the negotiated residual value will be applied as a check they cut to you.
Statistically, if you can negotiate a good price, a private sale may net you more money than a dealer trade-in, but you have to arrange to pay off the loan on your own and the paper work of title transfer, etc; plus you better hope that the buyer is not a con before letting your car go.
If the trade in is instead done at the time of purchase, then the remaining value (less the loan payoff) is subtracted from the new car's price and the remaining cost will have to be paid or financed; waiting until that time may result in further depreciation but also a lower balance on your loan. As noted above if the residual trade in value is positive, the reduced cost is then counted for sales tax (if your state allows it).
Statistically, if you can negotiate a good price, a private sale may net you more money than a dealer trade-in, but you have to arrange to pay off the loan on your own and the paper work of title transfer, etc; plus you better hope that the buyer is not a con before letting your car go.
If the trade in is instead done at the time of purchase, then the remaining value (less the loan payoff) is subtracted from the new car's price and the remaining cost will have to be paid or financed; waiting until that time may result in further depreciation but also a lower balance on your loan. As noted above if the residual trade in value is positive, the reduced cost is then counted for sales tax (if your state allows it).
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