.

[roadpilot]

Mine spewed out alerts, as well, and even got to a point of not starting. Long story short.. ABS module supposedly needed updating. Dealer performed it and I haven't seen the issue since.

I have a Mongoose Plus J2534 VIC that I bought to perform FDRS updates on my F150. I might bust it out, pay the $50 for a 2-day subscription and see if there are any outstanding module updates for my 12 day old Mustang.

Now that I have an F150 and a Mustang, I can leverage that FDRS subscription for both.

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[agreywolfe]

Not to sound like an idiot but when you say you disconnected the battery are you talking about disconnecting both terminal connections? Just making sure I have this down in case my Mustang does this after I get it.

Just the positive connection (the red one) disconnect that for a minute or two that'll cut all power to the car including its standby systems, that will force the car to completely reboot and wipe any non-stored codes. It'll also reset your dash layout to factory so don't forget to save your MyKey to the car beforehand.

 

[ListedGuru]

Just the positive connection (the red one) disconnect that for a minute or two that'll cut all power to the car including its standby systems, that will force the car to completely reboot and wipe any non-stored codes. It'll also reset your dash layout to factory so don't forget to save your MyKey to the car beforehand.

Very good info and appreciate the reply. I'm glad I asked the question

 

[Zig]

Just the positive connection (the red one) disconnect that for a minute or two…

Why positive? I’ve always heard negative first [off] negative last [on]

 

[roadpilot]

Always remove the NEGATIVE terminal first (and put it on last). If you remove the positive first, it can spark if there's a short somewhere. That spark can be an ignition source for flammable gases in the engine compartment.

 

[agreywolfe]

Always remove the NEGATIVE terminal first (and put it on last). If you remove the positive first, it can spark if there's a short somewhere. That spark can be an ignition source for flammable gases in the engine compartment.

See I've always heard it the other way around, if there's a short and the ground isn't attached it could fuck up the system.

 

[agreywolfe]

Very good info and appreciate the reply. I'm glad I asked the question

Like the others said, do the negative one, black, instead, same outcome.

 

[ListedGuru]

Like the others said, do the negative one, black, instead, same outcome.

OK so we only to disconnect the negative terminal and it will reset everything without having to unhook the positive one too? Just making sure I have this correct, lol.

 

[DCS]

OK so we only to disconnect the negative terminal and it will reset everything without having to unhook the positive one too? Just making sure I have this correct, lol.

Is this another low battery issue?

 

[agreywolfe]

OK so we only to disconnect the negative terminal and it will reset everything without having to unhook the positive one too? Just making sure I have this correct, lol.

Yes, when the battery disconnects it will stop providing power to the car causing it to drop all non-long term storage items. Hard codes like serious engine faults or stuff like magneride if you have it get stored so will persist through it though.

 

[ListedGuru]

Is this another low battery issue?

Yeah sounds like the codes that get spit out when a low battery issue manifests itself. I was just inquiring about unhooking the battery and letting it sit for a few minutes. It sounds like this will at least clear the codes and allow you to start the car again. I'm just trying to gain some knowledge here in case this happens to me as I don't want to get stranded or call for a tow

 

[DCS]

Yeah sounds like the codes that get spit out when a low battery issue manifests itself. I was just inquiring about unhooking the battery and letting it sit for a few minutes. It sounds like this will at least clear the codes and allow you to start the car again. I'm just trying to gain some knowledge here in case this happens to me as I don't want to get stranded or call for a tow

Get a good battery tender and FULLY charge the battery. This is what I plan to use as soon as I pick my car up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8KJH44?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[roadpilot]

Get a good battery tender and FULLY charge the battery. This is what I plan to use as soon as I pick my car up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8KJH44?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I would strongly suggest you pick up the Clore PL2320. It's a 20A charger that can run in 2/10/20A modes, is fully automatic, and even has a power supply mode that will indefinitely maintain system voltage while working on the vehicle (e.g., key on with engine not running). This is the charger/ps of choice for F150 owners who use the Mongoose Plus VIC when programming modules using FDRS (Ford Diagnostic and Repair System). It will even force charge a completely dead battery (0 volts) when most chargers/maintainers won't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ESQW08

 

[Zig]

Is this another low battery issue?

More like shadetree reboot

 

[Rip Actual]

Pikced up my car last night, full on brand new transmission ask the dealer what was the failure and he said porlly wont know or hear from Ford when they recieve my trans on what exactly happened. Shifts good and rides smooth happy to have it back. Now to get them to fix the paint.

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