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That's good work outta you... 🤣🍻

Well, to be honest, I wasn't really looking for an answer. I figured out what was happening on my own. I just never gave it much thought and then it made itself obvious one day. So, I figured I'd post in case someone else also noticed it but never thought much of it...

Yes, that's what I said... LOL... 🍻

There is such satisfaction of figuring it out on your own… LMAO

Who in their right mind would read such sorcery???

When I release the handle to lower the top, my audio always drops for a split second. Not a pop or anything. Just like it mutes quickly and then resumes. The same happens when you reverse the process and lock the top back down. I usually lower or raise the top right when I get in the car or am...

I used a Wavetech Link2 LOC and upgraded the sub driver to a Hertz Mille MPS 250 S4. For the amp I ran an Audison SR 1.500. I left the remaining B&O speakers except the center channel. There aren't a lot of 8 ohm options for center channel (oe unit is 8 ohm) but someone here recommended a very...

The higher the sensitivity #, the lower wattage the amp needs to be to drive it efficiently. So yes sir, you had it backwards. That said, it's a cost thing more than a wattage thing. You can buy a highly sensitive sub that can handle plenty of power...

The sensitivity is the key. Don't sweat the RMS wattage.

You guys are really missing the boat in not adding a LOC and amp. It's really simple and the results are night and day difference. I understand this thread is about a budget upgrade but.....

Wattage listed on a sub is the max it can safely handle. There are generally 2 numbers. RMS and max. RMS is how much a sub can continually handle in regular use. Max is what it can handle for a brief burst. That said, these numbers aren't what you would be looking for when considering a lower...

Using a line out converter fed by the OE sub input wires to feed an amp is super simple and you won't mess anything up. The most challenging part is running your power wire up to the battery. Modern LOCs even supply the turn on signal for the amp so installation is super simple. LOCs also come...

That is because the ESE comes from the sub. you have to do it with FORScan. It’s a 5 minute job and gets rid of the mud in the audio. However, once you do that an amp and loc are really a worthwhile investment…

It would be great if you posted an installed pic to help us visualize how it came together... 🍻

I have spare 7mm screws along with the push rivets. I'm sure I could find a 10mm in the parts drawers for that too. Looks like I'd just need the clip nuts for the 7mm screws. Hmmm. I'll have to look at the the DD/Form video again to try and get a better picture of the fitment and perhaps order...

If anyone has a parts list with #'s, I'll order. Otherwise I'll be lazy and leave it as is...

Thank you. That's what I figured... 🍻

Not sure of the correct term but like the panel that needs removed under the engine to change the oil... there is also one shown under the trunk area from the diff back. I never looked at this on my car until last weekend when I was installing the Diode Dynamics / Form rear reflector lights and...

Agreed. If changing the sub, an amp is really important. When I swapped in a Hertz sub, I added an Audison amp and the sound is unreal even in a convertible.

I did the same center channel upgrade and it's definitely worth it. Clarity took a big jump. For the money, it's a no brainer.