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Lmao, if you didn’t add an amp you didn’t improve shit. Same shitty power source is not bumping that Pioneer sub sunshine. But you do you, as long as you’re happy with what you’re listening to. I don’t give to shits about your sound. I’m out to improve mine and help others along the way. Peace...

I’ll get back to you regarding the factory enclosure this weekend after I dynamat it and test it. The enclosure is pretty thin plastic and it does flex enough that you hear the difference. I’m not sure how much the dynamat will help but it’s worth a try

The enclosure is the weak link. I have polyfil in mine but it still cracks at higher volumes. I’m taking it out this weekend to dynamat it to see if that helps. If not I will have a custom enclosure made. Your idea of sound quality must be extremely low. Just adding a sub is not a significant...

You won’t get much of a difference without adding a amp

Mine was built 12/12, it does not have start/stop

I think what horned toad meant by his statement is that in order to get MR you have to get PP, so then it’s close to 7k.

You'll be fine, just take your time. If you're going to build a deck in the spare tire well, all you have to do is remove the insulation from the underside of the panel and use it as your pattern. Use spray glue to put it back. Cut you plywood 3/4" of an inch smaller because the spare tire area...

To add a aftermarket sub you won’t touch the head unit. You can tap off your deck speakers for your line converter, which tells your amp to power up, you’ll need to run your power wire for your amp up to the battery. Run it down the passenger side. You can find a ground spot in the trunk area...

Does your retainer ring sit flush to the enclosure or does it sit upon the lip of the subs frame? Just curious.

Awesome

Same outcome, granted, I was just giving a different route where you didn’t have to drill new holes and could use the factory holes, retainer ring and screws. The factory mounting is far more secure than using sheet metal screws and drilling holes so close to the ones there and it keeps the...

Hey guys, FWIW here’s what I did when I replaced the sub in the B&O system. If you want to use the factory screws and trim ring, carefully remove the trim ring. There are retainers on the left side of the mounting screw, I used a trim removal tool to pry up the trim and a flat head screwdriver...

Magneride feels more refined, a much softer ride in normal mode with a noticeable difference switching between other modes, leather seats feel softer and my 1st to second gear shifts are more crisp with no drag/delay when it shifts.

I want to say the first one I had did that too, so maybe it is something to do with the first production cars. The one have have now wasn’t built until December and I’ve noticed a few differences between the cars

Yes, mine remote starts quiet. I have it scheduled from 6a-8a, no issues.

My quiet start works fine. Wondering if it was an issue with the early production cars? My thing is that I have to manually put it back to normal mode or whatever mode I want it in when I put it in drive. I’ll get a block from the house and say wtf, why this thing so quiet? Oh yeah, big dummy...

For it to start in quiet mode all the time you’ll have to set it that way in the settings. Set it from 12am - 11pm. Mine works every time

Press your dealer harder, skip your sales manager and go above him. He’s just a buffer between you and getting what you want. If you have a reputable dealer by the time you get to the dealer manager or the owner partner the sales manager will start making things happen. Believe me, my dealer...

I know they say they are for Jeep, Chrysler but they work perfect for ours as well. Just FYI

RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089Q9K9Z6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I plugged these into the factory sub harnesses and took them to the lc.