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No extra cost for mods down in 'lil old NZ either. Unless you make major changes like complete new suspension/brake design or huge power increases over stock. Where you'll need low volume vehicle certification, which isn't a major problem. A supercharger on a Mustang would be fine.

Would that be using lub.....sorry, launch?

I did that to start with, then I discovered the quiet start schedule and set that to between 6.00Am to 8.00AM, and set favourite to track😎

Road trips could be interesting then

Usually custom mode = Normal, Sport exhaust, sport steering, TC/ESC on When I'm feeling lazy = Normal mode, quiet or normal exhaust depending on time of day, comfort steering. When I'm doing some "Christian motoring", sport or track mode, TC/ESC off.

As an appliance dealer here had as a motto, "it's putting things right, that matters"

Each to their own opinion . Without trying to be boastful, mine's based on over 750000kms driving cars and bikes on very challenging roads here in NZ and a fair amount of driving in Australia and Italy. I have had all classes of NZ driver licence, all the heavy vehicle licences, Driver Testing...

Sounds like the alignment may not be correct. I wonder if they did a cheap and nasty toe check, or did all the other geometries too?

I have a Cruz Tools travel kit with basic tools, insulating tape, cable ties, etc. I also take a bike tyre plug kit and my tyre inflator. Never had to use either, so I'll keep taking them. Not keen on tyre inflator kits. We punctured a tyre while in Italy, miles from anywhere no cell service...

Good point. There is a spray on anti chip coating for ute trays and underbodies that might do the dampen the sound from metal guards too. Anyway, I'll see how long the current ones last.

Sorry, but I disagree. Relying on software to save you from yourself is, by definition, someone who has had insufficient training and/or experience to be safe. Not forgetting that safety nannies are not foolproof. Driving analogue cars for 50 odd years without an accident at all is a pretty damn...

$US2500 installed would be a bargain down here. Probably cost here $NZ6000 - $8000 plus $1000 labour.

I can't see the end of the hood/bonnet, I don't like parking by touch much.

It's often easier to lube the bushings where required. Tighten them a little more than finger tight, then torque to spec when the car is fully on it's wheels. If you have to drive to a vehicle hoist, then tighten to spec, loosen and retorque

They look good. But still around $NZ200. I'll see how long my homebuilt ones last. I could probably duplicate them in alloy. Besides, I rarely drive on dirt roads, and only in the wet when we're on a road trip. My wife's car is our daily driver, Mustang stays in the stable.

If the cost was reasonable I'd look at a 30 something HP Ford boost. But otherwise I'll leave it stock. A stage 1 tune on a turbo engine usually gives good results, but my limited results with NA street engines doesn't encourage me.

Yep, old fart here. Isn't it great! (apart from getting out of a recliner chair, or bed in the morning) I'll finance if it makes financial sense, but otherwise it's cash. That's what all those early sacrifices were about.

I noticed it on the test drive along with the hands on the wheel warning. I've never felt such aggresive lane assist before.

I loked at the DIYVan, but including freight and coversion to South Pacific peso's it would have been over $NZ200

I hate lane assist with a passion. When you're driving on a two lane rural road ( like most of our roads) I always approach a corner either on the fog line for righthanders, or next to the centreline for left handers. this gives the best sightline through the corner and sets the car up to clip...