I've bought or leased 15 new Ford / Lincoln / Mercury vehicles in just the last 18 years alone. Same dealership, all but 2 from the same salesman except for the last one - he retired so I bought from his son. No idea what my total count is over my 40+ years of driving/owning - at least 3x...
Don't underestimate the amount of time it will take to apply module updates.
Connect your negative lead to the bare spot/bolt/whatever on the frame, not to the battery negative terminal.
I would put it on the charger the day before and make sure it's nice and full.
Everything has been updated in the car and truck.
Dark Horse: Had BCM and PCM firmware updates waiting. Applied both. Initially, a few modules reported DTCs after these updates (common), but clearing and retesting those, all are perfectly fine and I have no updates waiting for it in FDRS...
A quick Google search tells you this:
The normal voltage range for a car battery is as follows:
Resting voltage (engine off): 12.6-12.8V
Voltage with engine running: 13.5-14.5V
Fully charged voltage: 13.7-14.7V
25% charge voltage: Around 12V
Over 12.8V indicates overcharging, check regulator...
Except it's not. The DH chassis number is additive - mostly marketing. It does not replace the VIN. VIN has and always will be the VIN, the official way determine ownership.
Why are you entitled to Mustang before others? That's ridiculous. Might I remind you that Ford is a GLOBAL company. Please explain why you feel so entitled.
Quite frankly, I find your post inappropriate. My only question is: Gen Z or Millenial?
Thanks, @DFB5.0. I did go with the MTM kit I mentioned above. We shall see if I become as much as an aficionado as you to warrant upgrading anything down the road. It seems like a great start above all the Chinese knockoff crap on Amazon.