Search results

yeah, it’s a limited warranty for sure; tires have to be within 1 size of stock, no slicks ( drag radials too? I don’t remember that one, but wouldn’t be surprised ), no whipple non-approved add ons, etc., etc. But it’s better than nothing.

The F/P whipple and the Whipple stage 1 both have a ‘capped’ warranty 7500 motor, and 2500 trans. half shafts are not covered.

Was the plate mounted on the car or did you have it in the cab with you? The former is good, the latter is legal grounds for a stop in all the states. Check close enough and you’ll see that it needs to be permanently affixed - language will vary. Traffic code covers pretty much everything...

No, not really.

Thanks for clarifying, that is interesting info and worth some extra research.

So you have a Whipple supercharged Mustang with $25k in cooling modifications? Now I’m more curious! And the resulting car cannot go 20 minutes on a track session?

Can you elaborate here?

Revenuers. It’s a holiday weekend, and NHTSA has provided traffic enforcement grants; that’s use or lose $$$. have a video camera and make sure it’s on.

TBF, if our position is 11.4 is inaccurate then it’s almost certain the 12.5 is also inaccurate 1/4 mile tin at a track, with a solid 60’ and good reaction time and repeatable follow up runs would be generally accepted as to the open/ closed: I can tell you from first hand experience that...

Thanks for updating the thread! Glad it’s a pretty straightforward fix.

.1 second all other things being equal? open works well on a dyno but closed will overta it at speed w/ forced air or ram air.

#OneLessprius

One time in 2018 I washes and waxed my Raptor. It only took2.5, maybe 3 hours, but I was listening to the stereo the whole time. Next time out, after about 30 minutes I realized auto stop start wasn’t engaging. Sure enough the menu said not enough charge. That lasted another hour or so of...

I haven’t seen that but, you’re averaging 243-ish miles per month. How often are you driving and when you do drive, how long are you driving? if you’re driving infrequently and then only short trips then chances are you aren’t driving far enough and long enough to charge the battery.

Ouch ! that sucks huge, but glad you’re ok. Hopefully you’ll have her back to new-like in no time.

I watched during Dark Horse Track Attack, and IIRC the best I got was 1.18 one way and 1.14 the other. That’s post session beer worthy. 2 pints for being the first track day :cool: I’ve seen 1.36 at track attack and 1.32 on a controlled brake test on local roads, so #respect!

check your fluids; IDK about coolant, I’d not heard of that one before, but Ford is pretty aggressive about motor preservation strategy and oil level is definitely one that will send you into limp home mode. Definitely hit up @roket and see if you threw a DTC. or check with FORSCAN....

I just added a rye IPA fermented with Saison yeast to the taps. Haoppy times!

I realize the one I’m referring to was about the F150’s, but the principle is still the same. This is an economy strategy, so they can meet the corp. cafe standards, and in some cases it’s dangerous and we can thank throttle by wire for that. There’s no longer a direct relationship between...

Take it to the dealer. My ‘17 Raptor did this all the time from new. I logged my first complaint at first service. Then, I asked them to reprogram pursuant to a known TSB. S/A said they did it, but instead they checked and programing was current. I barked pretty loud at this, brought it back...