There is some crazy talk in this thread. Throw out out dyno numbers
show me ET/Trap MPH gains from a tune.
If a car stock is running 11.9/118 MPH…. You’re telling me with just a tune they’re gonna see mid 11s /122 plus?
I’ve year to see any of this in the real world….. at all.
The stock intake performs really well, it’s not like the gen 1 coyotes, where we could slap a C.J. / mono and turn it up to 8500 rpm on E85 and see serious gains.
you really need to add cams to wake it up, but you’re basically gonna end up with “boost money” into a much slower N/A setup.
i...
Whine was inefficient rotor packs with friction and heat.
these are amazingly efficient…. “ my steak is too juicy and my lobster is too buttery “ as the kids say!
Stock airboxes yes, that looks like the wrong filter or he just smushed it in there, also it should be bolted down… where there is that gap between the holes.
whole install is suspect by that look….personally I’d be pissed… looks like a hack wrenching on it
Don’t do that, it will be ungodly obnoxious and drone/rasp for miles.
H pipe is NOT gonna make it “sound deep” that’s a myth
I put the jones maxflow muffler on to quiet the rasp and deepen the tone, my car is off road, in quiet mode it’s quieter than stock, in normal or sport it’s deep and...
Interesting read, what’s your mods?
I’ll give you the advice.
From their perspective, these cars are so thoroughly documented its cookie cutter recipes.
How fast do you want to go, and work your way back.
I’d skip the driveshaft until you’re making 1K whp…
what’s your setup?
Yes, stock trans and converter, that’s what I was talking about, I know quite a few cars (that make more power than me) that cut 1.4s easily/repeatably also stock converter/trans.
You just floor it from idle, as opposed to trying to foot brake it up to 1500-2000rpm, every time I tried to leave with anymore rpm than idle the car went slower or blew my launch.
DCT is a completely different animal, doesn’t have a fluid converter
and my best launches have been off idle. I just flash the converter from idle and cut 1.5 60s super easy.
I’ve yet to see a custom tune gain anything at the track or dyno over a whipple stage 2 tune on E30 boost for boost.
imo, go custom tune if you’re planning on a full fuel system, ID1300, E85 and trying to run 8s or better.
Well, for what it’s worth, several if not dozens of these cars have cut 1.4 60 foot time stock trans, stock converter.
I don’t think launch control would do anything but help you spin and go slower, a stickshift car yes, but auto, no.
I keep stating, you’re a few refreshes away from not having a steering wheel, cybercab rollout as we speak, cars will be autonomously connected to each other like a hive/swarm
it will be like flat screen tv or cell phones… 1 or 2 and then ubiquitous.
Automatic, as far as I know, only the GT350 has these axles, GT500s are even beefier but different length.
I got mine for $399 iirc, was worth it, if I snap one it’s not a big deal, been breaking axles since the 90’s 28 spline sticks.
That is exactly what I did, put a GT350 axle in the driver side. I keep the spare GT350 axle and stock axle as extras in the garage, car makes over 800 wheel, never had a problem (but I don’t race as often)
Incredibly impressive, unfortunately it seems like EV is just a non starter with the sport, and the younger generation has a fraction of people into racing compared to the past.
At this point they’re “forcing it”
Sad though