It’s not too bad. The convertible is a bigger pain. But the trick is to tap the rear speakers and use an amp with line level input, or a LOC. Then it’s about routing power and a remote turn on to the engine bay. A ground of course.
im doing a stealth install and using a Cerwin Vega Slim...
It’s a 5 channel system if you count the front stage as a proper 3 way speaker setup. But it appears they have it segmented into a 7 channel system, breaking the front components up. It’s kind of idiotic how they did it.
so ford math, 9 drivers is a 7 channel system that should be a 5 channel...
I plan to use an “add a fuse” tap. I intend to use
BJB - 21
10A
Unused
Single
Accessory
here is a thread on it; https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/s650-mustang-fuse-box-diagrams.160469/
Thank you so much for all of this information. Very helpful.
i am going to bypass the ACM for those speakers and run new cable. I have an 8 channel amp with full DSP so I can just “roll my own”.
Ford really makes all of this a bear.
Ah, now that makes some sense. That means the tweeters and center will have to have new wiring run from the amplifier I am installing in the trunk. The ACM, that is built into the head unit of the car, correct? it does not run to the amplifier in the rear of the vehicle?
Interesting. On the 9 speaker, in my car, i have 9 distinct drivers.
1 - Center Dash (IP)
2 - L and R A Pillar Tweeters
2 - L and R Upper Door 3.5” Midranges
2 - L and R Lower Door 6.5” Woofers
2 - L and R Rear Quarter Pannel 6.5” Full Range (non 2-way)
From what I understand the B&O has...
I have a trick that works every time.
I close the top. Then twist the handle to latch it closed. That activates the window up circuitry.
i simply then turn the handle to unlatch the roof and push up A bit.
I close the rear windows, then the fronts. Then pull down and latch the roof closed.