I ended up changing my setup completely. I’m running an 800x2 on the door speakers and two 440x4’s for the upper mids, tweeters and deck. Got a 1600Wx2 for the sub.
I do but the colors on the AMP pro don’t match specifically. You should have ran 6 wires from the center console and pillars to the back and only be looking for 12 wires to tap into for the door and deck speakers. They’re usually a color and the color w the black stripe. Go set of wire by wire...
Dude that OEM DSP puts like 900W to the whole system. I can imagine the sub gets 100W & all other speakers get the other 800W. My car sounds insanely loud with the 2 4 channels & 2 2 channels.
It is mounted/ glued on the backside of the tweeter.
As for removing the pillars, just pry them gently. I never broken them on any mustang I’ve done.
Hey
OEM tweeters do have a resistor helping them get crossover-ed passively but they will stop working once you install the pac module. They need to be amplified
I’m glad I could help! Be careful with what you run though. The tweeters/ center dash speakers didn’t work well with a 4 channel. I’m wiring two mini 4 channels & a 2 channel for lower mid bass to handle the load.
had some parts lying around , got some used & bought others new. I probably spent around $1000 in total. I’d say around $1500-$2500 depending on your hardware/installer if you’re starting from scratch.
Finally got around to correcting this garbage system Ford calls “premium”. This write up is going to be pretty long so I’ll simplify it as best as I can. Upgrading the B&O is 1000x more expensive than a factory system and a bit more complex because of how the B&O system is laid out.
The...