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A cast wheel "magically" broke at 98mph in the middle of Turn 2 at WSIR without hitting anything. So yes they fail. Will they simply fracture for no reason? No. But coming apart in a turn under load is a big deal. Would I use a cast wheel on the street? Yes. Would I run one even on...

Just pointing out the differences from a safety perspective. One snaps and comes apart. The other bends and stays together. Obviously we're talking about wheel failures irrespective of how the wheel failed (impacts and/or lateral loads). Was it low quality? I would argue yes...

Turn 2 at WSIR. Hit nothing. Outside rear snapped. Car went flying off track and was almost flipped over due to the wheel folding under the car and digging into the dirt. Have it on video somewhere from the car behind me (on the track).

Not sure if this was mentioned but here's a big consideration. Cast (what ever you want to call it) breaks (as in comes apart) Forged bends. I hit a pot hole in my CSL550 that had cast aftermarket wheels (still expensive). Broke both wheels on wheels at 80mph. Turn 2 at WSIR, outside rear...

Cast centers do break on the track. The difference is that the cast center breaks, the forged center bends. One comes apart, the other doesn't. And it's a big deal on a track. Seen it, been there done that.

Who is LIdio at alternative? (a person at a shop? excuse my ignorance... thx)

Is this a true flex fuel (meaning... adjusting between two maps depending on the quantity of ethanol present) or switching (black & white) between two maps (somehow switching the maps back and forth)?

Who is doing a proper flex fuel tune?

Past my pay grade....B The crash boxes... I thought their Muncie something lol back in the day. No idea how they drove I read about a few of them here and there in magazines but no experience at all. I think it was a muscle car thing. By the way still love muscle cars lol

The main point is it's a brand new car, driven casually on street around town with a consistent repeatable grinding on the 2-3 & occasional on the 3-4. And I'm sure Ford would, for obvious reasons, looks for the low hanging fruit, as we all would. But with a new car and a warranty, he needs...

I understand what you're getting at... that the performance of the synchros become less relevant & necessary as the gear ratios become closer because the gears spinning closer and closer to the same speed. Technically speaking, you don't need synchros at all, if you shifted you engaged the next...

If that was the case, it would happen in every gear.

6200 rpms seems a little early.

Do not try to resolve yourself. It's not worth your time and hassle because it's under warranty. But grinding is never normal. My guess is that 1 or more synchros were not installed properly or defective.

Presuming you know how to shift properly (sorry had to say it but I'm sure you do...) no... somethings wrong. Take it to ford and have one of the techs drive it.

It's now happening consistently at 6200. Doesn't matter the drive mode, or stability/ traction control on or off. Same Feels like you lift off the throttle from wot to 80% throttle to redline. Becoming more pronounced No DTC codes

2025 GT. Manual Trans. Bone stock. approx 1900 miles. Feels normal at WOT from at stop accelerating in 1st gear until somewhere between 6500 & 6800 (didn't log it) when it feels like the throttle was lifted slightly for 200rpms ish then it pulls hard again until redline. Still...

under 2000 miles ... wot 1st & 2nd gear, clean clear 75F day... hesitation around 6200rpms. Getting slightly worse over the last week. This in "sport mode". Any ideas? Haven't done any data logging... I mean.. come on... it's a new car. Bone stock.

R compound tires. Do your research. Stay away from used slicks. While they sound tempting, you'll be chasing your setup because the next set of used slicks (even if the same make/model) will perform differently. That's why we never setup race cars on used slicks. Too inconsistent. And...