Search results

You can never go wrong with Recaros. Extremely comfortable with great lateral support. Expensive... but worth every penny... presuming you like the aesthetics.

Personally.... I'd much rather have a clutch style LSD. Especially on a race track.

same same... almost sounds like a light rod knock. I'm fairly certain comes through the shift boot. The body penetration for the shifter/linkage needs more sound insulation under the boot/opening. I haven't pulled it apart yet to see what it looks like but it's on the list to correct.

I understand what drag mode is and how to activate. Same no matter the mode. It's right at approx 6200rpms. Feels like you let off the gas abut 1/2 way for a split second then back to full throttle. A user here (on this thread) informed me that as a part of the tq management in the...

i 91 pump gas

A cast wheel "magically" broke at 98mph in the middle of Turn 2 at WSIR without hitting anything. So yes they fail. Will they simply fracture for no reason? No. But coming apart in a turn under load is a big deal. Would I use a cast wheel on the street? Yes. Would I run one even on...

Just pointing out the differences from a safety perspective. One snaps and comes apart. The other bends and stays together. Obviously we're talking about wheel failures irrespective of how the wheel failed (impacts and/or lateral loads). Was it low quality? I would argue yes...

Turn 2 at WSIR. Hit nothing. Outside rear snapped. Car went flying off track and was almost flipped over due to the wheel folding under the car and digging into the dirt. Have it on video somewhere from the car behind me (on the track).

Not sure if this was mentioned but here's a big consideration. Cast (what ever you want to call it) breaks (as in comes apart) Forged bends. I hit a pot hole in my CSL550 that had cast aftermarket wheels (still expensive). Broke both wheels on wheels at 80mph. Turn 2 at WSIR, outside rear...

Cast centers do break on the track. The difference is that the cast center breaks, the forged center bends. One comes apart, the other doesn't. And it's a big deal on a track. Seen it, been there done that.

Who is LIdio at alternative? (a person at a shop? excuse my ignorance... thx)

Is this a true flex fuel (meaning... adjusting between two maps depending on the quantity of ethanol present) or switching (black & white) between two maps (somehow switching the maps back and forth)?

Who is doing a proper flex fuel tune?

Past my pay grade....B The crash boxes... I thought their Muncie something lol back in the day. No idea how they drove I read about a few of them here and there in magazines but no experience at all. I think it was a muscle car thing. By the way still love muscle cars lol

The main point is it's a brand new car, driven casually on street around town with a consistent repeatable grinding on the 2-3 & occasional on the 3-4. And I'm sure Ford would, for obvious reasons, looks for the low hanging fruit, as we all would. But with a new car and a warranty, he needs...

I understand what you're getting at... that the performance of the synchros become less relevant & necessary as the gear ratios become closer because the gears spinning closer and closer to the same speed. Technically speaking, you don't need synchros at all, if you shifted you engaged the next...

If that was the case, it would happen in every gear.

6200 rpms seems a little early.

Do not try to resolve yourself. It's not worth your time and hassle because it's under warranty. But grinding is never normal. My guess is that 1 or more synchros were not installed properly or defective.

Presuming you know how to shift properly (sorry had to say it but I'm sure you do...) no... somethings wrong. Take it to ford and have one of the techs drive it.