Most folks road racing for the first time, mostly leave things alone on the car till they find needs for change. I ran a stock Roush 427R for many years in HPDE before making changes, of which the first change was tires. Didn't do any suspension changes till i moved into HPDE4 and had made the...
I ran StopTech Aero Rotors and 4-piston calipers for over 12 years road racing in the midwest. Rotors will begin to spider crack over time, depending on the abuse at the track. I usually had to change out my rotors every 2 years, + -. Inspect the rotors after every weekend session. Once you...
Yes it is. As I was ready to move out of HPDE (with NASA), I was convinced that racing class American Iron was my next move. After talking to many drivers and weighing the cost factor as well as potential damage factor, I reconsidered the racing classes. Instead, went into Time Trials (TT3)...
Having FI alone doesn't make you fast in road racing. When I first began road racing, I was educated very quickly that it takes more than HP to be competitive. Things like experience and proper setup are key factors. I've seen V8's get beat by Miata's a lot and it took me years to figure it...
Maybe needed once one gets 30K-60K miles on the engine, or if one does a lot of track racing. Good quality gas, i.e. Tier One, will help keep engines at peak performance.
Hmm, the 10.9 Metric Class bolt is only equivalent to SAE Grade 5 bolt and I believe the standard in most automotive bolts is Grade 8, which would equate to 12.9 Metric Class.
Before going the weld route maybe get some Grade 8 or Class 12.9 bolts and re-install????