Now that’s what I’m talking about. Great idea. That’s why I turn to you guys. I’ve been racking my brain & didn’t think of that.
Still 2 issues that I’ll have to work around.
1. The stock rears in the garage are Trofeo RS’s & too cold right now to try them
2. May have to get a dealer reset...
I didn’t see any posts before I made my move. But, I was new to the Forum & admit I hadn’t read everything. Then after I had my problem & posted, I’ve seen others say they are having problems. Surely there are many others who have changed wheels & tires but I’m perplexed why it’s not a universal...
Dealer told me that if you have the adaptive cruise option, still can’t just switch to standard cruise in settings because that is dependent on camera input also. Not sure if problem exists in cars that have only Standard Cruise.
I’m having this issue. Posted multiple times times. DH with HP. Switched to 285/35/20 (27.9”) Front & 305/35/20 (28.4”) rear. Lost Cruise control & pre-collision assist. Dealer couldn’t fix it. Ford said it was the tires affecting the windshield camera view of road. Went back stock (305/30/19...
I’m not in total disagreement with J Dog. I love the modern engines, cars, brakes, suspensions. My only point was that he said no old school big block engines (not performance specs) could match up with the Gen 4 Coyote. J. Dog quotes published hp numbers but it is common knowledge that the...
I agree. The Ford Performance School uses wider Michelin Pilot Sport 4s & I had zero spinning or rear end sliding. My DH Pirelli Trofeo R’s & Michelin PS 4 All Seasons stick well. No rear end looseness so far.
I beg to differ.
1. Ford 427 FE solid lifters, 2-4 barrel carbs, 500+ HP - according to Holman & Moody
2. Chevy 427 L88 - 500+ HP
3. Mopar 426 Hemi -500+ (I think)
Modern engines are awesome, but old school stuff kicked some ass too. Old school skinny bias ply tires were not conducive to good...
Idk. I drove the DH at the Ford Performance School as hard as I could. Full throttle. Full breaking. No holding back. Back end seemed fine to me. Never broke loose. Lots of turns. No slides.
I’m heading back in April for 2 day course & 1 day advanced course. I’ll see how it does then.
The 26.6 & 26.7 are <3%
The 27.9 is >3%.
I’m hearing stay <3%, but my 2nd set are <3% & I still had problem recur. I’m at a loss for advice except to get as close to stock as possible even if it means getting smaller, narrower tires. And, I’m not sure if the rears matter also.
Hope I don’t sound like a broken record, BUT, Same for me. Ford dealer replaced my CCM (Cruise Control Module) but didn’t fix it. After consulting with Ford big fogs, told me it was the taller front tires changing the angle that the windshield camera had with the road, affecting the data inputs...
I calculated it in past. Don’t remember exactly but it was outside 3%. Put stock 19s back on. Had it recalibrated. Then put smaller fronts on that are within 3% & problem recurred.
Front : Pirelli 305/30/19 stock; tried Michelin PS AS 285/35/20 then 285/30/20 (only 0.4” taller than stock) if my...
Beware. Your summer setup may cause you to lose Pre-collision Assist & cruise control functions. It did with me. I would recommend trying to stay with stock size wheels (19s) & just get tires that are similar diameter to your stock tires. These computer troubles are killing me.
Regarding squared setup and tire rotation: the offsets on the wheels are different in front & back. Mine are +24mm front & +50mm rear. How can they be rotated? I don’t think they can be moved around. I could be wrong. Open to education.
It’s not just the wheel diameter. It’s the wheel & tire overall diameter that affects revolution/mile that the computer monitors. You can have a taller wheel and get a shorter, the same, or taller overall diameter based on which tire you put on it.