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That kit from Amazon comes with 6 fuses that are all the same dimensions, and will fit where the power windows fuse is (top left red 10 in your picture, IIRC). If you want to double-check, pull that fuse and measure it. The second picture on the Amazon page has the fuse dimensions.

Yes, that link I posted is the exact one I purchased when I hard-wired my radar detector.

You can do it easily with this: Gebildet 4pcs 12V-24V... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV4LY54?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Use the power windows fuse. Also, take the glove box completely out, makes it much easier to see and maneuver.

2 Anchor Room lens tint kits for sale, $25 each, plus shipping. Includes 20% tint for every light except headlights. Had an issue with first order shipping, so ordered another set, and never ended up using either and now I'm getting rid of the vehicle. Includes instructions and everything it...

I think it just means it's not currently connected to any WiFi networks. Have you added it to your home WiFi? Does it still say disconnected when you are at home?

Sounds interesting. Got any pics?

Correct, you only lock 1 lug on each wheel, so you only need 4 total.

To each his/her own, but I think it could look nice as a replacement for the top 3 LED strips above the headlamps. Would be cool to see the "welcome lights' be the same color as your car.

$15, plus shipping. Brand new, still in sealed package. Came with car, but I have no interest in using them.

$50 OBO, plus shipping. Brand new blade style spoiler for sale. Includes hardware, and almost full tube of Polyurethane Adhesive Sealant. Will need to add need 3M tape. I'll even throw in some brand new, still in package, Ford locking lug nuts if interested,

My car came with with the blade style spoiler but I’d rather have no spoiler at all. Anyone have the spoiler-delete deck lid panel in Atlas Blue and want to trade.

Good question. My initial membership fee was $35 and came with X-plan benefit, so I would think it's the same when renewing.

He said I simply filled the hole from the bottom side of the Spoiler module with some Quik Weld, Then placed a small piece of vinyl over it from the top side. 99% of people will never know.

For those interested in this spoiler, someone on Facebook got it and posted the pics we have been waiting for. He said there is just about 3/8" of the center hole that's not covered. I simply filled it and put a small piece of vinyl over it. I was at a cars and coffee meet today. A number of...

Agreed, especially after seeing some of the holes partially open, some fully open, some closed. Certainly looks intentional for function and looks.

Wondering if anyone has seen this or tried it. I'm guessing it's probably not worth the effort for minimal gains, but if the DH has it fully open, maybe there is something to it. Thoughts?

And sorry for my bad forum etiquette. Just saw a similar post with a very similar sound from same area of engine bay. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/anyone-else-have-this-clicking-noise-normal-any-ideas.160221/#post-3258186

Thanks, that's what I figured. I did remove the cover and it doesn't make a difference. The sound seems to be coming more from the front passenger side of the block. I'll keep an eye/ear on it and see.

Is this sound normal? It's not as noticable with hood closed, but when hood it up, it's very obvious. Does it at startup and during normal operating temp. Only has about 500 miles so far.

According to my sales guy... The space in the center console is to reset the connection between the key fob and the vehicle. Sometimes interference from other wireless signals can mess with the key fob signal, and it will need to resync with the vehicle.