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2024 GT 87 Octane ... Commuting to work.

I bought this rubber sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D4Q133TP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8 Used a template posted on this site, and installed it with a couple of extra push pins. It's a pretty good/factory looking solution. The solution is outlined here...

This is a good example of what works for one doesn't work for the other, we're not even in the same area. I'm not garaging my car until summer either. My winter daytime highs aren't in the upper 50s or 60s. We're about to get 6-10" of snow and my regular startup temps are in the low 20s...

Yep, I do live and learn too. I've run ForScan, data logging, looking at the differences between 87 and 93. Specifically looking for things like spark knock. I made my decision based on my fuel, driving habits, and the data in ForScan.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?countryCode=USA&languageCode=EN&Uid=G2270898&ProcUid=G2134123&div=f&variantid=9122&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA&buildtype=web Your vehicle operates on regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump...

Lots of people prefer to get the factory fill out fairly quickly because it can have a higher wear metal content .... since it's in during the break in. My factory fill had high Silicon levels, which is likely just RTV type sealants and not air filter issues, but it's good to note that in case...

It's fine, you do you. I just didn't want other newbies to think 90 minutes is expected and they should just bring it to the dealer or something. It takes me as long to change the Mustang's oil as it does to change the oil in a Honda CR-V.

Couple of hours? It's 30 minutes, including cleanup. If I worked as slow as possible, and showed my kids how to do it along the say, 45 minutes.

Last month I noticed my auto start/stop wasn't engaging when it normally would have. I threw my battery on a 2A charge, it went for like 12 hours. After that, OTA updates rolled in and the start/stop started working again. So, I'd verify your battery is healthy if you want to eliminate...

Can you point me to this one?

I got my GT for 48K. Other than the M2, what else on that list can be purchased for even 2X or 3X that? I did consider an M240 before I bought the GT.

Same. When I had mine PPF'd the guy said it was the best Ford paint jobs they'd seen in a long time. He said he hopes this is the new baseline.

I'm with you. I bought a 24 GT. I've never bought a Ford product before. I'm happy with the purchase.

For perspective, $45K is the going rate for a decent Honda Pilot and base Nissan Z. A base Ford Explorer is $40K. Are they all higher than in 2015? Yep. But, that's where the (middle class car) market is now.

ForScan can program a new remote.

Well, the video does offer a few datapoints that says it does/could matter. Heck, even I would say it's insignifiant wear over the life of an engine - 40 oil changes or so. Either way, it doesn't matter, you've got nothing to offer that even suggests it causes no wear. I'm out.

I'm sorry, I missed it. Where was your data posted? The only thing I saw that you post was that it only provided "warm and fuzzies ". Your argument would be a lot more convincing if you said it was an insiginifant amount of wear, not no wear.

Post 54 provided data. Where is yours? If your argument is that the added wear is insignifican't, that's a different thing. "In God we trust. All others must bring data." W.E Deming

That just means they can't avoid the added wear, as small as it may be, by not prefilling in vehicles with suboptimal filter housing designs. I wouldn't draw the conclusion that because some engine designs can't use that trick, no one should.

If those mattered a significant amount, we'd have tons of UOA showing much higher wear with 5w20 vs 5w30, right? Can you show me those? I never said there was zero difference. I'm saying that the sky isn't falling just because 5w-20 was put in. As I already mentioned, my 1200 mile UOA...