Update: I removed the 8 sets of locking clips I was able to install and rechecked tightness on all 16 stage 8 bolts after a few heat cycles. I got maybe 5 degrees of movement out of a couple bolts, but nothing to call home about. I decided to just leave the locking clips off since the bolts...
Everyone that I’ve gotten responses from on other platforms said that they have seen zero issues using these bolts without the locking clips. Some of the people I talked to work in shops and install these often. They actually prefer to not use the clips.
I’m installing the 1 7/8” Kooks LTHs. I opted to use the stage 8 bolts and locking clips that come with the headers instead of the OEM studs and nuts. You can’t use the OEM studs in certain spots because of clearance issues and my OCD wouldn’t let me mix match fasteners.
My question is how do...
You’d know if they didn’t install the tune. Thing would be running like crap if it would be able to run at all. On top of that you just went from dual throttle bodies to one. That has to be taken into account in the tune.
So if it runs and feels like stock in normal driving conditions then...
Awesome. I am kind of worried about my cats, but I don’t drive the car a ton and I ran 11 psi on my S197 gen 1 coyote with cats for a while with no issues. I just crossed 3,000 miles.
Do you have any time slips? Give an update after you start running it with the 3.5” pulley. I’m interested to...
3.75” pulley on 93 octane. I’m kind of in a holding pattern until this thing is tunable. I haven’t even put headers on yet. Just springs, wheels, tires and corsa cat-back.
I haven’t had a chance to take it to the track yet.
Are you running a 3.5” pulley?
Shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes or so to swap the pulley. Remove the air intake, loosen the adjustable idler pulley, remove the belt, swap pulleys and put it all back together. Make sure you tension the belt to the 100 mark on the tensioner.
I’ve been running it since I started this thread. No issues, but the noise hasn’t stopped. I’ve just been living with it.
The noise happens for me when the car is off and I open the door to get in. The only time it doesn’t happen is if the car has been running recently.
I sent Forscan an email. They got back to me within a few minutes. They don't provide support unless you purchase the extended license, which is only $12. They were kind enough to let me know that they are releasing an update in 2-3 days that will be able to recognize my car. I guess my car was...
Yea, I saw that thread. There's another one where someone had the same issue and emailed Forscan and they were able to correct the issue. I think that's my next step. If that doesn't work I may try my hand at this. Otherwise I may just install a dash mounted analog boost gauge or get the Banks...
Everything seems to be working fine until I try to connect. It wants me to manually enter the PCM strategy, which I’ve done following the instructions laid out by Forscan, but still no dice.
I’m trying to set this up. I’m running forscan on parallels on my Mac. I’ve got the cable, the license, I’ve followed the directions to get the PCM strategy from the forscan website, but it won’t recognize my car. Any suggestions?
I had to trim the bottom of that piece on the driver side to get it to fit.
I got all the other parts back in with the exception of the first piece in your original post.