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You’ll need to redo the whole sound system to get this to sound acceptable. I swapped speakers at first and got less crunchy highs but nonetheless still mid quality sound

B&O system should give you more dynamic control though. The stock system only gives you 3 bands. Having total control of each speaker and its frequency / gain is a game changer.

this should have been stock on the DH 110% !!! Matches the door panel trim beautifully

You can also do a remote turn on to the window/locks fuse but you 110% need to grab power from the battery. The window switches stay on until you open the driver door. I don’t recommend the door fuse remote tap because ever since the latest update, the radio has a 2-3 second delay before...

First one I grabbed remote signal from LOC (not my fav thing to do as its signal sensing). Second one I used the AMP PRO interface from PAC and it has its own LOC converted bass signal from two of the four wires coming out of subwoofer harness (they both got the same signal) everything wired...

Are you using the center speaker? It kinda throws off the whole set up. I have the center and upper door mids running off a 4 channel

I ended up changing my setup completely. I’m running an 800x2 on the door speakers and two 440x4’s for the upper mids, tweeters and deck. Got a 1600Wx2 for the sub.

I do but the colors on the AMP pro don’t match specifically. You should have ran 6 wires from the center console and pillars to the back and only be looking for 12 wires to tap into for the door and deck speakers. They’re usually a color and the color w the black stripe. Go set of wire by wire...

Dude that OEM DSP puts like 900W to the whole system. I can imagine the sub gets 100W & all other speakers get the other 800W. My car sounds insanely loud with the 2 4 channels & 2 2 channels.

No idea, but I could imagine that the voltage regulator wouldn’t like a higher output. If you’re running below 2500 W, then you should be fine.

It is mounted/ glued on the backside of the tweeter. As for removing the pillars, just pry them gently. I never broken them on any mustang I’ve done.

Hey OEM tweeters do have a resistor helping them get crossover-ed passively but they will stop working once you install the pac module. They need to be amplified

I would 100% upgrade those speakers. They are low RMS and may blow if overpowered. That could damage your amp

I’m glad I could help! Be careful with what you run though. The tweeters/ center dash speakers didn’t work well with a 4 channel. I’m wiring two mini 4 channels & a 2 channel for lower mid bass to handle the load.

It’s about 6x12 inches. Mounts on left inner quarter panel below tail lamp. Word lol fuck that factory dsp

iPhone 14 pro max

Shoot me a message bro. I got you

I added some more useful information to the write up! Be sure to relocate your factory DSP to the position depicted below.

Glad I can assist! Do not hesitate to perform this upgrade. You will have a sound system equivalent (probably even better) to a Harman Kardon set up.