Rear Camber

[Junkyard Dog]

Strut tower holes widened and camber plates all the way in

Which camber plates did you install?

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[thornclaw]

you can adjust it yourself but it is a bit tedious
loosen the camber bolt at the back of the camber arm
the wheel will naturally want to fall inwards
put a crowbar in between the frame and the camber arm at the back of the camber arm
push on it with your foot while you measure the camber change with a digital inclinometer magnetized to the brake disc. once you hit the reading you want, tighten the bolt back down. you will be able to do this yourself using your foot as your third hand
that steeda piece mentioned above is problematic in that the thick metal sides of it prevent you from applying enough clamping force to the frame causing it to move around and loosen with time. ive tried it and the moog equivalent and both had the same problem. i would advise avoiding that part.

 

[GhastlyTT]

Which camber plates did you install?

I have Steeda's.

 

[tj@steeda]

I have Steeda's.

Great choice

 

[krisk]

UPDATE:

Just one guy on an Ecoboost forum, and I do not know him, but he claims he installed these and had the following experience with them coming loose constantly:

I went through all of this a few years ago and have my experiences with this kit. The install is straight forward and the location is a real ***** to get to, using an impact and a swivel from the rear of the car will allow you to get the nylock nut tight. I installed these, red locktite on everything, set it to max positive adjustment to make up for the lowering springs, then took it to my alignment shop. They said everything was in the factory limits, readjusted the toe to match what I had done and everything was great.....for about 3 months. Then one day whilst enjoying the freeway and sliding lanes I feel a unnerving rear end wiggle. After returning home very carefully, I put it up on ramps and stands and sure enough, my passenger side adjustment bolt could be turned with a wrench easily adjusting the camber. I took the nut off, all threads looked good so I put it back on tight and was all good for a few months, then the other side cam loose. Now Im getting pissed, I know they were installed correctly and with red locktite! I re-tightened that one and the other one loosened again! At this point I have had it ( about 6 months ago ) and decided that since factory there is little to no adjustment, thats what I was going to do. I adjusted the camber all the way out and welded the bracked to the sub frame with my Mig welder. Then a good tack on the washer on the nut side to the bracket so the camber cant move and new grade 8 bolts and nuts. I would not buy this kit again and would go with a better setup such as the adjustable rear camber arms. Hopefully you wont have the same issues, also keep in mind that I drive my car hard for around 100 miles each day M-F.​

Source:
https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/steeda-rear-camber-adjustment-kit-install.21233/

I have Steeda's camber arms in the rear and the best I could get this weekend was -2 on the rack.

I would wager that the issues mentioned in both of these posts results from the rear camber arm bolt not being positioned in the “furthest inboard point” as instructed in Steeda’s installation procedures. Installation instructions are attached; note step 4.

When the the car is sitting on the wheels or being driven, the pressure of the suspension pushes the camber arm frame mounting bolt inward. If the bolt was installed and torqued at the furthest inboard point, then then it cannot push any further inward under load. The only way it could move would be outward, and it is only pulled that way when the suspension is hanging.

Also, if the frame bolt is not at the furthest inboard point, then the amount of negative camber which can be achieved will be reduced.

I run a -2.0 rear camber on my track only Mustang with the Steeda camber arms and have not had any issues with loosening and there is still plenty of adjustment to take it further negative if I desired.

FWIW, I was running a different brand rear camber arm previously, which uses a tab system, and replaced it with the Steeda version, which I’m much happier with. I also previously used another brand of rear toe links and swapped those over to the Steeda version as well because I was getting a clicking noise from the other brand. After those two instances I decided to try to stick with Steeda’s suspension parts. Steeda isn’t perfect, but their parts are well made and I’ve been happy with the support. In full disclose, I did have a squeak from the Steeda camber arms due to what I presume to be a bad bushing when I first installed them, and Steeda replaced it for me.

 

[GhastlyTT]

I would wager that the issues mentioned in both of these posts results from the rear camber arm bolt not being positioned in the “furthest inboard point” as instructed in Steeda’s installation procedures. Installation instructions are attached; note step 4...

Possibly. I know I installed them correctly at first, but I've had a hell of a time getting someone local to align my car properly. I had Ford align it initially after being turned down by a handful of places and they would not give me my requested spec. It took them 3 attempts and I'm pretty sure they didn't touch my aftermarket parts for the adjustments. I ended up with basically no camber:

Now this last weekend, the shop I was working with said that -1.3 was the best they could get. That was by maxing out both Steeda arms and then backing off on the side that exceeded. When they told me about it, I explained that the Ford tech likely screwed up my install and used the Ford procedure moving the arm mounting point outboard, and if they loosened them up and moved them inboard they'd get closer to what I asked. So that's what they did to get to -2 but it's still a ways off from the advertised range and your experience. idk, I'll have to get under the car eventually and look over their work but for now I'm mostly satisfied and excited to drive it the way it is setup.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I would wager that the issues mentioned in both of these posts results from the rear camber arm bolt not being positioned in the “furthest inboard point” as instructed in Steeda’s installation procedures. Installation instructions are attached; note step 4.

When the the car is sitting on the wheels or being driven, the pressure of the suspension pushes the camber arm frame mounting bolt inward. If the bolt was installed and torqued at the furthest inboard point, then then it cannot push any further inward under load. The only way it could move would be outward, and it is only pulled that way when the suspension is hanging.

Also, if the frame bolt is not at the furthest inboard point, then the amount of negative camber which can be achieved will be reduced.

I run a -2.0 rear camber on my track only Mustang with the Steeda camber arms and have not had any issues with loosening and there is still plenty of adjustment to take it further negative if I desired.

FWIW, I was running a different brand rear camber arm previously, which uses a tab system, and replaced it with the Steeda version, which I’m much happier with. I also previously used another brand of rear toe links and swapped those over to the Steeda version as well because I was getting a clicking noise from the other brand. After those two instances I decided to try to stick with Steeda’s suspension parts. Steeda isn’t perfect, but their parts are well made and I’ve been happy with the support. In full disclose, I did have a squeak from the Steeda camber arms due to what I presume to be a bad bushing when I first installed them, and Steeda replaced it for me.

krisk,

For what it is worth I was quoting a post about the other system coming loose, not the rear camber arm.

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